Part 1: Colonial Streets & Ancient Stones — Lima
If you had told me a year ago that I’d be sipping coca tea at 11,000 feet while trying to catch my breath in a cobblestone alley, I would have handed you a glass of pisco sour and said, "Lead the way."
Lima
Our 2026 South American journey kicked off in Lima, a coastal metropolis where Spanish colonial balconies meet misty Pacific cliffs. Lima is a feast—literally. Between exploring the historical grand square of the Plaza Mayor and indulging in freshly caught sea bass ceviche in Miraflores, it’s easy to see why Peru’s capital is considered the culinary heart of the continent.
Before immersing ourselves in the modern city, we traveled about 25 miles south of Lima to the sacred archaeological complex of Pachacamac. Spanning centuries of pre-Inca and Inca history, this vast desert sanctuary served as an important oracle center dedicated to the deity Pachacamac, creator of the earth.
Walking through the sun-baked adobe structures, three sites stood out:
• Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol): A massive terraced red-adobed pyramid overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Standing near its base, you get a breathtaking view where the desert dunes crash into the blue ocean.
• Acllahuasi (House of the Chosen Women): Featuring classic trapezoidal stone and adobe doorways, this restored sanctuary housed women dedicated to ritual weaving and ceremonial duties.
• The Site Museum: A great first stop to see ceramic pottery, preserved textiles, and the wooden idol carved with intricate figures representing the deity itself.
The Ultimate Ceviche & Culinary Tour
You cannot visit Lima without diving headfirst into its now world-renowned culinary scene and spend atleast a day wandering around its historic centre and admiring its beautiful colonial architecture.
When you reach Lima, after resting for a bit, head to Kauza a low key restaurant tucked in the heart of Miraflores on Calle Tarata. Kauza is an innovative spot dedicated to reinventing causa—the classic Peruvian cold dish of seasoned yellow mashed potatoes. They offer dozens of varieties from causa acevichada to lomo saltado toppers alongside traditional Peruvian comfort classics.
Day 1 - assuming you have the whole day, start with a journey to the Ancient Past, the Pachacamac.
Travel about 25 miles south of Lima to the sacred archaeological complex of Pachacamac. Spanning centuries of pre-Inca and Inca history, this vast desert sanctuary served as an important oracle center dedicated to the deity Pachacamac, creator of the earth. Walking through these sun-baked adobe structures, three sites stood out:
• Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol): A massive terraced red-adobed pyramid overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Standing near its base, you get a breathtaking view where the desert dunes crash into the blue ocean.
• Acllahuasi (House of the Chosen Women): Featuring classic trapezoidal stone and adobe doorways, this restored sanctuary housed women dedicated to ritual weaving and ceremonial duties.
• The Site Museum: A great first stop to see ceramic pottery, preserved textiles, and the wooden idol carved with intricate figures representing the deity itself.
After a hot and sunny morning, the evening is best spent on a Pisco Sour tour.
Day 2 – It’s a historical Lima tour day, featuring Spanish colonial architecture, the birthplace of the city at the Plaza Mayor, and the bone-filled crypts of the San Francisco Monastery.
That evening join a local food tour focused on Peru’s national dish—ceviche—and some more Pisco Sour. Did you know, Ceviche is typically eaten for lunch, not dinner; In Lima, they don’t even serve ceviche after 5 pm or so since the fish is no longer fresh.
• Cala: Perched directly on the rocky shores of Barranco's Costa Verde waterfront, Cala offers stunning ocean views accompanied by the crash of the Pacific waves. It’s an ideal place for an upscale seafood lunch by the water or evening Pisco cocktails in a chic sunset lounge watching the surfers and the para gliders.
• La Preferida: A beloved local neighborhood favorite in Miraflores, La Preferida is known for its unpretentious, bustling atmosphere and generous portions. Originally starting as a traditional tavern, it’s famous for its leche de tigre, yellow-chili ceviches, and savory seafood rice dishes (arroz con mariscos).
• Huaca Pucllana: Tucked right in the middle of Miraflores is this impressive pre-Inca adobe and clay pyramid dating back to around 500 AD. Seeing a 1,500-year-old archaeological site lit up against modern apartment buildings at dusk provides a stark, fascinating contrast. Situated right inside this pre-Inca archaeological site, is a restaurant that pairs modern Peruvian cuisine with an unbeatable setting. Sitting out on the terrace illuminated by fire pits, eating ceviche, drinking pisco sour and direct views of the ancient adobe pyramid lit up against the night sky.
• La Mar: Founded by world-renowned chef Gastón Acurio, La Mar Cebichería on Av. La Mar in Miraflores is considered the ultimate temple of Peruvian seafood. Open only for lunch to guarantee the absolute freshest catch of the day, it offers a vibrant, open-air party atmosphere with incredible ceviches, tiraditos, and whole grilled fish.
In between the organized tours make time to stroll through Barranco perhaps for lunch. At dusk, stroll through Miraflores especially through The Cat Park.
Miraflores was our primary base, we stayed at The Pullman. This seaside neighborhood is famous for its stunning coastal cliffs known as the El Malecón, and some of the best views and green spaces in the city. Walk along the cliffside boardwalks overlooking the Pacific Ocean and watch paragliders and surf boarders catching the coastal thermal winds. Pause at the Parque del Amor (Love Park) to admire the colorful mosaic walls inspired by Antoni Gaudí and the iconic centerpiece sculpture, El Beso ("The Kiss"), by Peruvian artist Victor Delfín.
Located right in the heart of Miraflores, Parque Kennedy (Kennedy Park or the Cat Park) was one of our favorite spots for a casual evening walk. The Kennedy Park is famous for being home to dozens of stray cats that freely roam the gardens, benches, and tree branches. Cared for by local community volunteers and non-profit groups, the cats are friendly, well-fed, and love to nap next to visitors enjoying the park.
As night fell, the park filled with local artists displaying oil paintings along the central walkways, live musicians, and food carts selling warm, cream-filled picarones (traditional Peruvian sweet potato and squash donuts drizzle with spiced chancaca syrup). Grab a chocolate filled warm churro as you walk back to your hotel.
The Bohemian Soul of Lima: Barranco
Just south of Miraflores lies Barranco, Lima’s vibrant, artistic quarter. Once a 19th-century beach resort for Lima’s aristocracy, Barranco has transformed into the bohemian heart of the city—filled with colorful romantic mansions, street art murals, cozy coffee shops, and lively cocktail bars.
• The Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros): This iconic wooden footbridge spans a ravine leading down toward the Pacific Ocean. Local tradition says if you cross the bridge for the first time holding your breath, your wish will come true! Underneath the bridge lies the Bajada de Baños, a stone walkway winding down to the sea lined with restored beach houses, vibrant street art, and flowering bougainvillea.
• Street Art & Murals: Every corner in Barranco feels like an open-air gallery. Giant, expressive murals painted by prominent Peruvian street artists decorate the historic stucco walls, making it one of the best areas in Lima for an afternoon photography stroll.
• Craft Beer & Nightlife: As twilight sets in, Barranco comes alive. We popped into local taprooms to taste regional Peruvian craft beers brewed with native ingredients, followed by artisan Pisco drinks at cozy neighborhood bars playing live Afro-Peruvian jazz and traditional criollo music.
