July 2026 | Utah & Arizona
How It All Began
My youngest niece had recently graduated from high school. When asked what she would like as a graduation gift, her answer was simple: "A unique experience."
Now, that was an invitation I couldn't resist!
I had always wanted to hike Angel's Landing at Zion National Park, one of the most iconic and thrilling hikes in the world. And thus, the idea was born. What better graduation gift than an adventure that would challenge us, take us out of our comfort zones, and hopefully create memories that would last a lifetime?
There was just one small problem. My niece had gone on plenty of walks, but she had never done any serious hiking.
So, our training began.
Our first adventure was the Billy Goat Trail, Section A, in Maryland. For those familiar with the trail, it's relatively short but offers some moderately difficult rock scrambling. I wasn't quite sure how my niece would take to it. But to my delight, she scrambled over those rocks like a nimble mountain goat! Not only was she completely comfortable navigating the rocky terrain, but she also emerged as a budding leader, spotting trail markers and confidently guiding her little band of mature adults through the rocks.
A new hiking enthusiast was born that day!
Encouraged by her enthusiasm, we continued our preparations with hikes at Cedar Run, Old Rag, and a few other trails in the Shenandoah Mountains. By the time July arrived, we were ready—or at least we thought we were!
From Las Vegas to the Magical Antelope Canyon
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In July 2026, we finally embarked on our much-anticipated weeklong trip to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks.
We flew into Las Vegas, rented a car, and drove straight to Page, Arizona, our first stop. The following morning, we visited Lower Antelope Canyon, and what a spectacular beginning to our adventure!
Located on Navajo Nation land, Antelope Canyon is a dramatic slot canyon carved over millions of years by the relentless forces of wind and water. Both Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons can only be visited through guided tours operated by Navajo-owned tour companies.
Calling this a "hike" might be a bit of an exaggeration. The tours are relatively easy-paced, lasting approximately 90 minutes to two hours. However, Lower Antelope Canyon does involve navigating narrow passageways and climbing up and down ladders and stairs, making it unsuitable for wheelchair users or those with significant mobility limitations.
But the scenery! Dramatic is an understatement.
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The canyon walls twist and curve into the most extraordinary shapes, with shades of red, orange, amber, and gold changing constantly as sunlight filters through the narrow openings above. Every turn reveals another incredible formation, almost as if nature had spent centuries sculpting an enormous work of art.
Our guides, young Navajo men and women, were friendly, knowledgeable, and clearly proud of their heritage.
One of the most memorable moments came when our guide suddenly pulled out a flute and began playing a beautiful traditional melody. The sound echoed through the narrow canyon walls, filling the space with hauntingly beautiful music. For a few moments, everyone fell silent. It felt almost as if we were listening to a symphony performed by nature itself.
Absolutely mesmerizing.
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Later, the guide demonstrated how the canyon formations had evolved, using just a handful of sand and a bottle of water. Such a simple explanation for something so magnificent!
It was one of those experiences where photographs, however beautiful, simply cannot do justice to what your eyes have witnessed.
Horseshoe Bend: Nature's Perfect Curve
From Antelope Canyon, we drove about 15–20 minutes to Horseshoe Bend.
A relatively short walk from the parking lot brought us to the overlook, where the Colorado River makes an almost perfect horseshoe-shaped turn around a massive sandstone formation.
Standing high above the river, with the sun behind us, we had an incredible view of the sweeping bend. Tiny boats drifted along the river far below, looking almost like toys against the enormous landscape.
Looking at the rock formations carved by the Colorado River over millennia, I was struck by the visible changes in water levels and the impact of human intervention and climate change on this fragile ecosystem.
Yet, standing before such an ancient landscape, I couldn't help thinking about the resilience of our planet. Humans may alter its course, but nature operates on a scale of time and magnitude that is difficult for us to comprehend.
After a quick lunch, we continued our journey toward Zion National Park, about a two-hour drive away.
Zion National Park: Let the Adventures Begin!
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Our home for the next few days was the Best Western Zion Canyon Inn in Springdale, conveniently located very close to the park entrance.
Springdale is a charming little town with restaurants, shops, outdoor outfitters, and several hotels, including Marriott properties. A free town shuttle runs through the main hotel and shopping corridor, taking visitors to the park entrance. This makes exploring Zion particularly convenient, especially during the busy summer months.
After checking into our hotel and settling in, we decided to make the most of the evening with a sunset hike along the Watchman Trail.
What a lovely introduction to Zion!
As the sun began to set, the towering sandstone cliffs glowed in warm shades of pink and orange. The views were beautiful, and the trail gave us our first glimpse of the dramatic landscape we would spend the next several days exploring.
Little did we know that the real adventures were just beginning!
Hiking the Narrows: A River Runs Through It
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Unlike traditional hikes where you follow a trail alongside a river, in the Narrows, the river itself is the trail!
We chose the popular bottom-up route, which does not require a wilderness permit for a day hike.
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The adventure begins with the paved Riverside Walk, approximately one mile from the Temple of Sinawava shuttle stop to the point where the canyon narrows and the trail disappears into the Virgin River.
From there, it's time to get wet!
The hike involves wading through flowing water, often ankle- to knee-deep, but occasionally reaching the waist or even higher depending on conditions. The riverbed is covered with slippery, uneven rocks, making every step an exercise in balance and concentration.
I cannot emphasize enough the importance of proper equipment.
We rented specialized closed-toe canyoneering boots, neoprene socks, and sturdy wooden walking sticks from local outfitters. These were invaluable. The boots provided better traction on slippery rocks, while the walking sticks helped us find stable footing in the flowing water.
We saw several hikers wearing regular sneakers or open-toed sandals. In my opinion, a big mistake! I witnessed both children and adults slipping, twisting their feet, or struggling to maintain their balance.
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Even with proper footwear, navigating the underwater rocks was challenging.
Despite the July heat, the water was surprisingly cold when we first stepped in. But as the sun rose higher and the air warmed, we gradually became accustomed to the temperature.
And there was something incredibly refreshing about hiking through a river while surrounded by towering canyon walls.
Most of the time, the water stayed below our knees, although we encountered a few stretches where it rose to our waists. These deeper sections were both exciting and a little treacherous, especially where the current was strong.
The tall walking sticks became our best friends!
As we ventured deeper into the canyon, the walls rose dramatically on either side, sometimes leaving only a narrow ribbon of sky overhead. The constantly changing light, the sound of rushing water, and the sheer scale of the canyon made this unlike any hike we had ever done.
We continued all the way to Big Springs, approximately five miles into the river route, where we stopped to enjoy a packed lunch before retracing our steps.
By the end of the day, we had covered roughly ten miles in the river, plus the Riverside Walk.
Surprisingly, despite the distance, we didn't feel particularly exhausted. The cold water had kept us cool and refreshed throughout the hike.
Our feet, however, had a different opinion!
Even with thick-soled canyoneering boots, the constant pressure from the uneven rocks had left them feeling bruised and tender. So, we wisely decided to spend the rest of the evening relaxing.
A practical tip: Before attempting the Narrows, always check the weather forecast and park alerts. Flash floods are a serious danger in slot canyons, even when it isn't raining where you are hiking. And definitely invest in the proper equipment—it makes an enormous difference.
Canyoneering and Rappelling: The 100-Foot Rappel- A Leap of Faith!
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We had booked a half-day guided canyoneering and rappelling excursion in the canyon country outside Zion National Park.
This was new territory for all of us, and perhaps the most adrenaline-filled part of the entire trip!
Our guide took us through a spectacular landscape of narrow slot canyons, smooth sandstone walls, and steep descents. The excursion involved approximately six or seven rappels, including some quite dramatic vertical drops.
The highlight of this adventure was undoubtedly the 100-foot rappel down a sheer sandstone cliff.
Now, standing at the edge of a 100-foot drop, looking down into what seems like an endless abyss, is a very different experience from admiring the same cliff from below!
Our guide secured us into our harnesses, checked the ropes, and instructed us to lean backward over the edge. Every instinct in my body was screaming, "Don't do it!" After all, leaning backward off a cliff goes against everything we have been taught about self-preservation!
The first few steps were the hardest. Your feet are pressed against the vertical rock face, your body suspended backward, and your entire weight is supported by a rope. Looking down was terrifying. The canyon floor seemed impossibly far away, and for a moment, I wondered what had possessed me to sign up for this adventure.
But then, somewhere along the descent, fear began to give way to wonder.
I paused to look around. The towering sandstone cliffs, the intricate formations carved by centuries of wind and water, the narrow canyon winding far below—what an extraordinary perspective! Here I was, suspended against a massive rock wall, surrounded by this magnificent landscape, experiencing nature from a vantage point that few of us ever get to see.
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It was simultaneously terrifying and breathtaking.
As I continued descending, I began to trust the rope, my footing, and perhaps most importantly, myself. With every step, my confidence grew. What had initially seemed impossible slowly became exhilarating.
And then, finally, my feet touched solid ground!
What a rush!
I looked back up at the towering cliff I had just descended and could hardly believe I had done it. A hundred feet! The same cliff that had seemed so intimidating from above now filled me with an enormous sense of accomplishment.
There is something incredibly empowering about confronting your fears, pushing through them, and discovering that you are capable of more than you imagined.
Of all the rappels we did that day, this one will remain etched in my memory. Not just for the height or the spectacular scenery, but for that wonderful transformation from "I can't possibly do this!" to "Wow, I actually did that!"
And that, I suppose, is what makes adventures like these so addictive!
Your mind says, "Absolutely not!"
Your guide says, "Lean back a little more!"
And somewhere between fear and excitement, you finally let go.
While the first rappel was undoubtedly the most nerve-racking. The last became most exhilarating.
The smooth sandstone walls, narrow passageways, and dramatic descents made the entire adventure feel like something out of an Indiana Jones movie.
Of course, we weren't the only ones who had discovered this adventure.
Several other tour groups were navigating the same canyon, and at one particularly narrow rappel, things became quite backed up. A group ahead of us had brought some young children who became frightened when they saw the steep descent and needed considerable encouragement from their guides.
Understandably so!
Our guide eventually rerouted us to another section, where we had to traverse a smooth, sloping rock face—a nerve-racking challenge in its own right! The smooth sandstone offered little to grip onto, and the steep drop below certainly didn't help calm our nerves! Helping each other climb up, then holding on to the thin rope as we walked across along this smooth sloping surface was a challenge. But the reward was well worth it. The traverse led us to an even steeper rappel, standing on a narrow ledge, harnessed to a hook in the bolted to the sandstone wall high above and sweeping views of the forest below. What initially seemed like an intimidating detour turned out to be one of the most picturesque and exhilarating parts of canyoneering adventure!
By the time we finished, we were buzzing with adrenaline and feeling rather proud of ourselves.
A well-deserved lunch and tall glasses of cold lemonade tasted especially wonderful afterward.
Emerald Pools: A Quieter Evening
That evening, we decided to explore the Emerald Pools trails, a relatively easy network of hikes leading to three pools.
After the day's excitement, we were ready for something less adventurous.
Unfortunately, the pools were rather disappointing in the middle of July. With little water flowing, they were shallow and not nearly as dramatic as the descriptions had led us to expect.
I can imagine that during spring, with more water cascading over the rocks, the pools would be much prettier.
Still, it was a pleasant evening walk and an opportunity to enjoy another part of Zion's landscape and each others company.
Angel's Landing: The Hike We Had Come For
And then came the day we had all been preparing for.
Angel's Landing!
One of the world's most renowned hikes, famous for its dramatic ridgeline, sheer drop-offs, and breathtaking views of Zion Canyon.
This was the hike that had inspired our entire trip. The reason we had scrambled over rocks at Billy Goat Trail, climbed Old Rag, and spent months building up our hiking confidence.
And now, here we were!
The Angel's Landing hike can be divided into three distinct sections: the initial canyon ascent, Walter's Wiggles, and the final narrow ridgeline leading to the summit.
A permit is required to continue beyond Scout Lookout onto the famous chains section, with permits awarded through a lottery system designed to manage overcrowding.
We had initially applied for permits for our group of six, but unfortunately, our application was unsuccessful.
Not wanting to miss the highlight of our trip, we eventually arranged a guided hike through a tour company, which was able to secure the necessary permits for our group.
In hindsight, having a guide turned out to be a blessing. A couple of members of our group were somewhat nervous about heights, and the guide's calm reassurance and encouragement made an enormous difference.
Refrigerator Canyon and Walter's Wiggles
The trail begins relatively gently, following the valley floor before ascending a series of switchbacks toward Refrigerator Canyon.
The aptly named Refrigerator Canyon offers a refreshing stretch of shade and cooler temperatures, a welcome relief from the blazing July sun.
But the reprieve is short-lived.
Next come Walter's Wiggles.
Twenty-one tight, steep switchbacks carved into the canyon wall, climbing rapidly toward Scout Lookout.
I don't know about everyone else, but I found these 21 wiggles absolutely oppressive!
Initially, I would stop every 20 steps to catch my breath. As we climbed higher, those rest stops became increasingly frequent.
My lungs were working overtime, my legs were protesting, and I kept wondering when the switchbacks would finally end.
Interestingly, I found this section more physically challenging than the famous narrow ridge that followed.
Eventually, we reached Scout Lookout, where the landscape opened up to spectacular views of Zion Canyon.
And there, ahead of us, was the final challenge.
Walking the Knife-Edge Ridge
The last half-mile to Angel's Landing is what makes this hike legendary.
A narrow, fin-like sandstone ridge rises dramatically above the canyon, with sheer drop-offs of more than 1,000 feet on either side.
In some places, the trail is barely wide enough for two people to pass comfortably.
Metal chains bolted into the rock provide handholds along the steepest and most exposed sections. But there are also stretches where you must carefully navigate the rock without chains.
Looking down is optional—and perhaps not always advisable!
The hike requires concentration, a steady footing, and a healthy respect for heights. Wind and slippery conditions can make the experience even more challenging.
We saw a surprisingly wide range of hikers, including young children and even a couple carrying babies in backpack carriers.
I must admit, I found that rather alarming.
While I completely understand the desire to share outdoor adventures with young children, I couldn't help questioning the wisdom of carrying infants along such a narrow and exposed ridgeline. One misstep could have devastating consequences.
But beyond the challenge and occasional moments of anxiety, the beauty of the hike was simply extraordinary.
Hardy trees clung to the steep sandstone slopes, providing patches of shade for exhausted hikers. Chipmunks darted among the rocks, and birds soared effortlessly through the canyon.
And then something truly magical happened.
An Unexpected Encounter With a California Condor
We were incredibly fortunate to encounter a California condor perched just a few feet away from us.
A condor!
One of North America's rarest and largest flying birds.
Several park rangers had mentioned that even after working in Zion for years, they had rarely seen a condor up close. Most sightings were of these magnificent birds soaring high above the canyon.
And here was one, practically posing for us!
Up close, I must admit, its face was not particularly attractive—rather vulture-like, with a bald head and wrinkled skin.
But what a magnificent creature!
Its massive body and extraordinary wingspan made me wonder how something so large could glide so effortlessly through the air.
Watching it eventually take flight, riding the thermals above the canyon with barely a flap of its wings, was mesmerizing.
Nature truly never ceases to amaze me.
A Memory Worth a Lifetime
Standing atop Angel's Landing, looking out over the immense sandstone cliffs and the winding Virgin River far below, I felt an overwhelming sense of accomplishment.
But more than the magnificent views or the thrill of conquering the ridge, what made this moment so special was sharing it with my nieces.
Watching them confidently navigate the rocks, overcome their fears, encourage one another, and experience the joy of reaching the summit was immensely gratifying.
This was, after all, the reason the entire trip had begun.
A graduation gift had turned into an unforgettable shared adventure.
I hope that years from now, when my nieces look back on their lives, they will remember this hike with the same fondness and pride that I do.
For me, hiking Angel's Landing with them will always remain one of life's most precious memories.
The trio of the Narrows, canyoneering, and Angel's Landing had given us three completely different adventures, each extraordinary in its own way.
Frankly, I should probably have stopped there!
Because after those experiences, I wasn't sure anything else could quite measure up.
Bryce Canyon: A Landscape of Hoodoos and Fairy-Tale Formations
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Bryce is a completely different landscape from Zion.
Where Zion impresses with towering sandstone cliffs and deep, dramatic canyons, Bryce captivates with thousands of whimsical rock formations called hoodoos.
These tall, thin spires of rock, shaped over millions of years by erosion, create an almost surreal landscape. Shades of orange, pink, red, and cream stretch across the canyon in what looks like an enormous natural amphitheater filled with stone sculptures.
The formations reminded me of the extraordinary shapes we had seen in Antelope Canyon, although on a much grander scale.
It was unquestionably beautiful.
Yet, I must confess, after the sheer excitement and emotional high of Angel's Landing, Bryce somehow didn't feel quite as momentous.
Perhaps we had simply reached our adventure saturation point!
Hiking Among the Hoodoos
We chose to hike a combination of the Navajo Loop and Queen's Garden trails, descending deep into the heart of Bryce Canyon.
This is perhaps one of the best ways to truly appreciate the hoodoos. From the canyon rim, they look like delicate sculptures rising from the valley floor. But once you descend among them, their sheer size and intricate shapes become even more impressive.
The trail winds through narrow passages, between towering rock formations, and beneath natural windows and arches.
Every bend presents a new perspective, and the colors seem to change with the angle of the sun.
Our extended hike covered approximately five to six miles, including the steep climb back to the rim.
And that climb!
In the July heat, with the trail rising sharply out of the canyon, I would certainly classify our hike as strenuous rather than moderate.
After several days of intense hiking at Zion, our legs were beginning to remind us that we were not quite as young as we liked to believe!
For the rest of our time at Bryce, we wisely limited ourselves to driving along the scenic park roads, stopping at various overlooks, and taking short walks.
No more marathon hikes for us!
What surprised us most was how few people seemed to be visiting Bryce.
This was the July Fourth holiday period, traditionally one of the busiest times for national parks, yet several viewpoints and trails felt almost deserted.
Perhaps the nearby wildfires and concerns about park access had discouraged visitors. Whatever the reason, we certainly weren't complaining about the lack of crowds.
But by now, our hiking buckets were full, and we were beginning to look forward to home.
After Angel's Landing, we simply didn't have much adrenaline—or emotional energy—left for another grand adventure.
Sleeping Under the Stars: Our Glass Dome Experience
For our stay near Bryce Canyon, I had booked one of those increasingly popular glass dome accommodations.
The idea sounded wonderful.
Imagine lying comfortably in bed, gazing through the transparent ceiling at a sky filled with thousands of stars, perhaps even watching the Milky Way stretch across the horizon.
Bryce Canyon's high elevation and famously dark skies make it an excellent location for stargazing, and I had been looking forward to this experience.
I had visions of the spectacular Milky Way we had seen during our safari in Kenya.
Unfortunately, reality didn't quite match expectations.
For one, the moon was partially illuminated, brightening the night sky. The pathway lights around the dome camp also remained on well into the night, creating enough light pollution to diminish the stargazing experience.
And then there was the minor inconvenience of my falling asleep while waiting for the Milky Way to make its grand appearance!
So much for my romantic night under the stars.
As for the accommodations themselves, I found them rather overrated.
Despite the novelty of sleeping inside a dome, the actual facilities were closer to what I would expect from a basic motel.
At approximately $500 a night, I honestly didn't think they were worth the price.
Perhaps on a moonless night, with better control of the camp lighting, the experience would have been more magical.
But for us, it was one of those travel experiences that sounded better in the brochure than it turned out in reality!
Back to Las Vegas, With a Stop at Hoover Dam
On our return journey, we spent a day in Las Vegas and took the opportunity to visit Hoover Dam.
Hoover Dam remains an extraordinary engineering achievement, and its sheer scale is impressive.
However, I was somewhat disappointed by the visitor experience.
The newer construction and viewing infrastructure, in my opinion, have diminished some of the drama of seeing the dam in its entirety. Buildings and structures seemed to obstruct several views, making it difficult to fully appreciate the magnitude of the dam and the water far below.
And climbing endless steps in the scorching Nevada heat wasn't particularly enjoyable either!
Returning to Las Vegas, with its bustling streets, restaurants, hotels, and neon lights, felt rather like returning to civilization after a week surrounded by nature.
But as much as I enjoy the comforts of a city, nothing could compare to the grandeur of the landscapes we had just experienced.
Reflections: More Than Just Another Hiking Trip
Looking back, this weeklong adventure was about much more than visiting two spectacular national parks.
It began with a young girl's simple request for "a unique experience."
And what an experience it turned out to be!
From the magical sandstone formations of Antelope Canyon and the flowing waters of the Narrows to the adrenaline rush of rappelling down canyon walls and the unforgettable climb to Angel's Landing, every day brought something new.
We challenged ourselves physically, pushed through moments of fear, marveled at nature's extraordinary creations, and shared plenty of laughter along the way.
Bryce Canyon, with its fairy-tale hoodoos and sweeping vistas, was a beautiful finale, even if we were a little too exhausted to appreciate it with the same enthusiasm.
But what I will cherish most isn't the number of miles we hiked or the famous landmarks we visited.
It's the memory of my nieces scrambling confidently over rocks, their excitement at every new adventure, and the pride of standing together on top of Angel's Landing.
We set out to give my niece a unique graduation experience. In the end, she gave us something equally precious—a shared adventure and memories that will stay with us for a lifetime.
And isn't that, after all, what makes travel so wonderful?
