From Colonial Streets to Enchanted Isles: A 4-Part Journey Through Peru & The Galápagos

Part 1: Colonial Streets & Ancient Stones — Lima

If you had told me a year ago that I’d be sipping coca tea at 11,000 feet while trying to catch my breath in a cobblestone alley, I would have handed you a glass of pisco sour and said, "Lead the way."

Lima

Our 2026 South American journey kicked off in Lima, a coastal metropolis where Spanish colonial balconies meet misty Pacific cliffs. Most tourists generally skip Lima en route to Cusco, and Machu Pichu. Lima however is a feast—literally. Between exploring the historical grand square of the Plaza Mayor and indulging in freshly caught sea bass ceviche in Miraflores, it’s easy to see why Peru’s capital is considered the culinary heart of the continent and a firm place on the world culinary scene. Further, it mattered much in Spanish South America, and is the political and cultural center of Peru.

Pachacamac ruins

Journey to the Ancient Past: Pachacamac

Day 1 - Chances are you will reach Lima late morning. The drive from the airport to your hotel, likely in one of the two tourist districts is a 30 min to an hour drive depending on traffic. Upon reaching your accommodations, rest for a bit, then head to Kauza, a low key restaurant tucked in the heart of Miraflores on Calle Tarata. Kauza is an innovative spot dedicated to reinventing causa—the classic Peruvian cold dish of seasoned yellow mashed potatoes. They offer dozens of varieties from causa acevichada to lomo saltado toppers alongside traditional Peruvian comfort classics.

Day 2 - Assuming you have the whole day, start your trip with a journey to the Ancient Past, the Pachacamac.

Travel about 25 miles south of Lima to the sacred archaeological complex of Pachacamac. Spanning centuries of pre-Inca and Inca history, this vast desert sanctuary served as an important oracle center dedicated to the deity Pachacamac, creator of the earth. Walking through these sun-baked adobe structures, three sites stood out:

• Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol): A massive terraced red-adobed pyramid overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Standing near its base, you get a breathtaking view where the desert dunes crash into the blue ocean.

• Acllahuasi (House of the Chosen Women): Featuring classic trapezoidal stone and adobe doorways, this restored sanctuary housed women dedicated to ritual weaving and ceremonial duties.

• The Site Museum: A great first stop to see ceramic pottery, preserved textiles, and the wooden idol carved with intricate figures representing the deity itself.

After a hot and sunny morning, the second half of the day is best spent with a visit to Huacachina Oasis, a pisco vineyard, riding dune buggies, sandboard, and enjoying a desert sunset. 

The Ultimate Ceviche & Culinary Tour

Day 3 - You cannot visit Lima without diving headfirst into its now world-renowned culinary scene and spend atleast a day wandering around its historic centre and admiring its beautiful colonial architecture. 

Today's historical Lima tour features Spanish colonial architecture, the birthplace of the city at the Plaza Mayor, and the bone-filled crypts of the San Francisco Monastery. 

The Cathedral

Skip the car and walk. Most of the important sights in Lima’s historic center are close enough to each other that there really is no reason to spend the day sitting in traffic.

Your guide picks you up at your hotel in Miraflores or Barranco and takes you into the historic center. From there, the tour is mostly on foot. You’ll see the Cathedral, San Francisco Monastery and its famous crypts, Plaza Mayor, the Government Palace, some of Lima’s old churches and, of course, those beautiful wooden balconies that seem to be everywhere.

Wooden balconies of Lima

You’ll also walk through some of the busy shopping streets. They can be crowded and a little chaotic, but that is part of the experience. This is Lima—not a museum frozen in time.

The historic center is where you start to understand Lima’s history. This was the “City of Kings,” the center of Spanish power in South America, and many of the buildings and churches still tell that story. At the same time, this is a living, working part of the city, which makes walking it much more interesting than simply driving past the sights from a car.

And honestly, walking makes more sense here. You see more, you can stop when something catches your eye, and you don't spend half the tour wondering how long it will take to get through the next traffic jam.

That evening, join a local food tour focused on Peru’s national dish—ceviche—and, of course, have a few more Pisco Sours along the way.

One thing you quickly learn in Lima is that ceviche is a lunch dish, not dinner. In fact, many cevicherías stop serving it by late afternoon because the fish needs to be as fresh as possible. So if you want to try really good ceviche, plan on having it for lunch rather than saving it for dinner.

If you’re on a tour, your guide will select the restaurants. But here are a few places worth knowing about if you want to try them on your own:

• Cala: Right on the rocky Costa Verde waterfront in Barranco, Cala has terrific views of the Pacific, with the waves crashing below. It works equally well for an upscale seafood lunch or an evening Pisco Sour while watching the sunset, surfers and paragliders along the cliffs.

• La Preferida: This is more of a neighborhood place in Miraflores—busy, casual and generous with the portions. It started as a traditional tavern and is particularly known for its leche de tigre, yellow-chili ceviches and arroz con mariscos. This is the kind of place I like when I want good local food without a lot of fuss.

• Huaca Pucllana:

Huaca Pucllana

 My favorite and one of Lima’s most unusual dining settings is at Huaca Pucllana, the enormous pre-Inca adobe pyramid sitting right in the middle of modern Miraflores. The site dates back roughly 1,500 years, and seeing it lit up at night with apartment buildings all around it is quite a sight. The restaurant sits within the archaeological site, with a terrace overlooking the pyramid. Add a few fire pits, a plate of ceviche and a Pisco Sour, and you have one of those meals that is as much about the setting as the food. 

• La Mar: Founded by Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, La Mar Cebichería in Miraflores is one of Lima’s best-known seafood restaurants. It is open for lunch rather than dinner, which makes perfect sense given Lima’s ceviche culture. Expect a lively, almost party-like atmosphere and a menu built around ceviches, tiraditos, grilled fish and other fresh seafood. If ceviche is one of the reasons you came to Peru, this is a good place to take it seriously.

In between the organized tours, make some time to explore on your own. Barranco is a great place to wander around and perhaps stop for lunch. Then, at dusk, head over to Miraflores and take a stroll through the neighborhood, including the famous Cat Park. 

Miraflores was our main base, and we stayed at the Pullman. This upscale touristy seaside neighborhood is best known for its dramatic coastal cliffs and the El Malecón, the long series of parks and walking paths that follow the Pacific. It is one of the best places in Lima to get some fresh air and enjoy the views.

Walk along the cliffside paths and watch the paragliders riding the coastal winds above the ocean while surfers work the waves below. Stop at Parque del Amor (Love Park), with its colorful mosaic walls inspired by Antoni Gaudí and the large sculpture El Beso (“The Kiss”) by Peruvian artist Víctor Delfín.

This is one of those places where you don't really need an itinerary. Just walk along the cliffs, stop for the views, and enjoy watching Lima's daily life unfold around you stop for ceviche and pisco sours or some fresh Peruvian coffee from the highlands.

Located right in the heart of Miraflores, Parque Kennedy—also known as Kennedy Park or, more affectionately, the Cat Park—quickly became one of our favorite spots for a casual evening stroll.

The park is famous for its rather unusual residents—dozens of cats that freely roam the gardens, lounge on benches, climb trees, and nap wherever they please. Cared for by local volunteers and nonprofit groups, the cats are friendly, well-fed, and completely at home among the visitors. Don’t be surprised if one curls up beside you while you sit and watch the world go by.

But Parque Kennedy really comes alive as evening falls. Local artists set up their oil paintings along the walkways, musicians begin to play, families and couples wander through the park, and food carts tempt you with the smell of freshly made picarones—warm Peruvian doughnuts made from sweet potato and squash, then drizzled with a rich, spiced chancaca syrup.

And when you finally decide to head back to your hotel, grab a warm, chocolate-filled churro for the walk home. Because apparently, one dessert while strolling through Miraflores is simply not enough!

The Bohemian Soul of Lima: Barranco

Just south of Miraflores lies Barranco, Lima’s colorful, artsy, and wonderfully bohemian neighborhood. Once a fashionable 19th-century seaside retreat for Lima’s aristocracy, today Barranco is a delightful mix of romantic old mansions, brightly painted colonial buildings, enormous street-art murals, tucked-away cafés, and lively little bars. 

Barranco is one of those neighborhoods best explored without too much of a plan—just wander, turn down interesting streets, stop for photographs, and see where you end up.

The Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros) is perhaps Barranco’s most famous landmark. The small wooden bridge stretches across a ravine that once led fishermen down toward the Pacific. Local legend says that if you make a wish and cross the bridge for the first time while holding your breath, your wish will come true. Of course, we had to try!

Just below the bridge is the Bajada de Baños, an old stone walkway winding downhill toward the ocean. Once used by fishermen heading to the sea, it is now lined with colorful buildings, restored beach houses, flowering bougainvillea, and some wonderful street art.

And the street art is everywhere. Entire walls have been transformed into huge, expressive murals by Peruvian artists, turning Barranco into what feels like one giant open-air gallery. Keep your camera handy—there seems to be something interesting around every corner.

As the sun begins to set, Barranco changes character again. Cafés give way to busy bars, music spills onto the streets, and the neighborhood starts buzzing. We stopped at a couple of local taprooms to sample Peruvian craft beers, some brewed with native ingredients, before moving on to artisan Pisco cocktails.

If you have time, linger into the evening. Barranco is one of Lima’s best neighborhoods for live music, particularly Afro-Peruvian jazz and traditional música criolla. Between the murals, old mansions, ocean views, drinks, and music, Barranco has a completely different energy from Miraflores—and was easily one of the most fun neighborhoods to simply wander around.

Buying Japanese Knives - Without Losing a Finger or Your Wallet

I’m no knife expert—nor do I collect them. But during a recent trip to Japan, I found myself unexpectedly fascinated by Japanese knives and the quiet reverence people have for them. Sleek, balanced, and unapologetically sharp, they’re as much about craftsmanship as they are about function. If you’re heading to Japan and wondering whether you should splurge on one—yes, you absolutely should. Call me crazy, but I bought four. One for each family member. Because once you slice into a tomato with a well-honed Santoku, there’s no going back.

First, a bit about Western knives. Most of us know the well-known German brands like Zwilling and WÜSTHOF. While Germany isn’t the only place making great knives, there’s a reason it’s considered the standard for Western-style blades: German knife makers are famous for their steel.

German knives are heavy, durable, and built for power—great for tackling bones, squash, or anything that needs brute force. Japanese knives, on the other hand, are lighter, sharper, and built for precision. They glide through vegetables and sushi like butter. Think of German knives as SUVs—rugged and reliable. Japanese knives? Sports cars—sleek, fast, and built for finesse.

Ideally, your kitchen should have both.

Why Japanese Knives? 

Japan doesn’t mess around with blades. Whether it’s a samurai sword or a sashimi slicer, the attention to detail is obsessive—in the best way possible. The knives are lighter, thinner, and often sharper than their Western counterparts, which makes precision cutting a breeze.

And let’s be honest: holding a beautiful Japanese knife just makes you feel like a better cook. Even if you're just making grilled cheese.

Types of Japanese Knives (Because Yes, There Are a Lot)

If you're new to this world, the knife shop can feel like a sushi bar with no English menu—overwhelming but exciting.

Here are a few staples:

• Santoku – My personal favorite. “Three virtues” = meat, fish, and vegetables. All-purpose. All-awesome. Displayed in the image are three Santoku's with different blade steels, blade sizes and handles.

• Gyuto – The Japanese version of the Western chef’s knife. Great for meat-heavy meals.

• Nakiri – Flat blade, veggie-chopper’s dream.

• Petty – Small utility knife, perfect for fruit and detail work.

• Yanagiba – Long, thin blade used for slicing sashimi like a pro. Not necessary unless you moonlight as a sushi chef.

Let’s Talk Steel (It Matters)

Japanese knives come in a buffet of steel types, each with their pros and quirks. Here's the cheat sheet:

• High-Carbon Steel – Razor sharp, holds its edge like a samurai on a mission. But it’s needy—prone to rust if you so much as blink at it with a damp sponge. Great if you’re the careful type who dries their knives like fine china.

• Stainless Steel – Low-maintenance and forgiving. Modern varieties like VG-10, AUS-10, and stainless blends with carbon powder give you the best of both worlds—sharp, durable, and easier to maintain. My personal favorite for everyday use. You sharpen it, it listens. I bought Stainless Steel VG-10 with carbon powder

• Damascus Steel – Technically a layered steel, not a single type. Known for its distinctive wavy patterns, it’s usually a stainless or high-carbon core sandwiched between multiple layers for strength and beauty. Is it just aesthetic? Sometimes. But it's also symbolic of Japanese design: sharp meets stunning.

• Iron (Kurouchi finish) – More traditional, sometimes left unpolished with a dark, rustic finish. These knives are often handmade and feel artisanal. But like carbon steel, they rust fast and need babying. Not ideal if your idea of knife care is “toss it in the sink.

If you're a home cook who cooks often but doesn’t want to baby your knife after each use, go stainless. Save the high-carbon for your knife nerd phase.

Handles: Western vs Japanese

Now for the bit that surprises most people: the handles.

• Western Handles (Yo Handles) – These are what most home cooks are used to. Ergonomic, full-tang (meaning the metal runs through the entire handle), and typically on the heavier side. If you’ve ever used a Wüsthof or Shun, this will feel familiar—solid, balanced, and built for power chopping.

• Japanese Handles (Wa Handles) – Light, minimalist, and often octagonal or D-shaped. These are traditionally made with woods like magnolia, rosewood, ebony, maple or even burnt chestnut, and they give the knife a featherlight grip that feels surprisingly nimble. There’s a satisfying simplicity to them, both in form and function.

Personally, I’ve come to love the Wa handles—they feel like an extension of your hand rather than a tool you're gripping. That said, if you’re transitioning from Western knives, stick with what feels natural at first. There's no wrong answer—just personal preference. 

Handle materials range widely:

• Wood – My favorite. It’s warm, lightweight, and ages beautifully.

• Recycled Ocean Plastic – Yes, that’s a thing—and it's surprisingly attractive and environmentally conscious.

• Synthetic – Durable and no-fuss, though sometimes lacking that handmade character.

If you're just getting started, don’t overthink it. Pick the one you can’t stop holding in the shop—that’s usually your answer.

Keeping It Sharp (Without Going Zen Master)

Knife sharpening in Japan is practically a religion. Walk into any knife shop and you’ll likely see someone in an apron, calmly working a blade over a whetstone with the focus of a monk. It's mesmerizing. Rows of wet stones, each with different levels of grit, angled rods, and sharpening rituals so precise they make a tea ceremony look rushed.

But let’s be honest—most of us are not sharpening purists. We don’t own grit charts or watch YouTube videos on blade geometry before breakfast.

So here’s what the shopkeeper advised me (and I’ve come to swear by it):

Get a good roller sharpener.

It’s fast, foolproof, and—most importantly—it won’t mess up the edge or angle of your knife. Brands like Kyocera and Minosharp are excellent choices and widely available in Japan and online.

Save the whetstone for your retirement hobby—right after bonsai gardening and mastering calligraphy.

 Knife Maintenance 101

You’ve splurged on a handmade knife from a fifth-generation blacksmith. Now, don’t toss it in the dishwasher like a butter knife.

Do:

• Hand wash gently with soap and water

• Dry immediately

• Store in a wooden sheath (saya), knife block, or blade guard

Don’t:

• Cut frozen food or bones unless the knife is made for it

• Leave it soaking in the sink

• Use glass cutting boards (seriously, why do these even exist? These are slippery and dangerous)

Take care of your knife and it’ll outlive your non-stick pans, your blender, and possibly your marriage. Just kidding (kind of).

Where to Buy?

• Tokyo: Kappabashi Street (I bought mine at Kama Asa. Worth the hype.)

• Kyoto: Nishiki Market has great options—I bought another from Jikko. Musashi was another popular brand. Some shops even let you choose your blade and handle, then assemble it for you on the spot.

• Osaka: Try Jikko if you're in the mood for beautiful craftsmanship.

 Final Thoughts

Buying a Japanese knife is more than a souvenir—its serious business. It’s a daily-use piece of functional art. Every slice reminds you of your trip, the culture, the quiet precision of a country that makes even 
utility feel beautiful.

Just be warned: once you own one, you may not stop at one.

Japan 15 Day Itinerary - Sushi, Cities & Cultural Guide

I’ve just returned from a two-week whirlwind through Japan—land of sushi, samurai, and the world's most efficient vending machines. From the neon buzz of Tokyo to the serene shrines of Kyoto, and all the 7-Eleven egg sandwiches in between, here’s a day-by-day recap full of tips, mishaps, and magical moments.

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Day 1: Tokyo Arrival – Let the Jet Lag Begin

After 14 hours of recycled cabin air and mediocre airplane rice, we touched down at Haneda. Checked into the Hyatt Regency in Shinjuku (great location—walkable to metro stations and very civilized 7-Eleven next door). Pro travel tip: Japan’s 7-Eleven is not your sad American version. We made our first pilgrimage for...egg sandwiches. Yes, they’re that good. Trust me.

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Day 2: Mt. Fuji, Hakone, and Onsen Relaxation 

Mt Fuji

Booked a private driver/guide for a full-day Mt. Fuji tour ($350 well spent). Weather was cooperative (Fuji-san peeked out like a shy celebrity), and the driver took us through scenic villages and photo op  stops on the north and east sides.

Tokyo- Shibuya Crossing

Back in Shinjuku, we wandered into neon-lit alleys of Omoide Yokocho and stumbled upon an amazing sushi spot thanks to our local friend’s golden rule: Japanese-only listings + 4.5 stars = culinary jackpot. 

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Day 3: Temples, Tea, Knives & History

Started the day in Asakusa at the iconic Senso-ji Temple, followed by a stroll down Nakamise Street. Touristy? Sure. But worth it for the matcha ice cream and good vibes.

Next up: Kappabashi Street—Tokyo’s kitchen district. Japanese chefs treat knives like sacred tools. We did too. Picked up a few blades from Kama Asa (but I now regret not waiting for Kyoto... more on that later).

Also squeezed in a shrine devoted to cats (Imado-jinja) and skipped Skytree’s observation deck—because the one at the Tokyo Government Building is free and fabulous.

Evening view of Shibuya Crossing from the Starbucks window = iconic chaos in motion.   

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Day 4: Fish, Palaces & Jiro Dreams

Tokyo - Imperial Palace

Joined a free walking tour via GuruWalk that snaked through the Imperial Palace area to the bustling (and   slightly overwhelming) Tsukiji Outer Market. Tip: it’s pricey, but the tuna is basically sushi royalty.

Then began my sushi pilgrimage: hunting down the legendary Jiro Sushi in Ginza. Did I eat there? No. Did I peer into the holy temple of omakase greatness? Absolutely. Pro tip: Watch Jiro Dreams of Sushi before your trip.

Japan is a land of fascinating dichotomies. On one hand, it's a society steeped in conformity and order—there are virtually no public trash cans, yet not a speck of litter. Public toilets are scarce, yet the streets are immaculate. People exit train stations in silent, choreographed streams, no music blaring, no chaos—just quiet efficiency. And yet, this same country births some of the world’s boldest innovations, from high-speed trains to robot cafes to earthquake-resistant architecture that feels like science fiction. What drives this? Maybe it’s the country’s relationship with nature—the looming presence of tsunamis, typhoons, and earthquakes. In a place where disruption is always possible, efficiency isn’t just a virtue—it’s a survival skill. Innovation, in Japan, feels less like a choice and more like a cultural necessity, beautifully wrapped in humility and precision.

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Day 5: Anime Overload in Akihabara

Started the day with a return trip to the Tokyo Government Building for panoramic views (did I mention it’s free?). Then wandered Akihabara—Tokyo’s mecca for anime, manga, and electronics. Unless you’re a true fan, a half-day here is plenty.

Tokyo - Akhilbara

Pro tip: Nakano Broadway is a quieter, alternative spot if you're hunting for pre-loved luxury goods and quirky collectibles.

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Day 6: Odaiba & TeamsLab... Almost

Spent the day in the futuristic Odaiba district with views of Tokyo Bay and the Rainbow Bridge. Tried to visit TeamLab Planets but—rookie mistake—didn’t book tickets in advance. Learn from me: Book. Ahead.

Tokyo - NishiShinjuku

 Tokyo is one of the largest and busiest cities in the world—a vertical sprawl of high-rises packed with young professionals, endless train lines, and crosswalks that pulse like rivers of people. Green space? Nearly nonexistent. And yet, the city is spotless. No litter. No trash cans. Just an unspoken commitment to order. And the service—whether at a convenience store or a high-end sushi bar—is consistently warm, precise, and respectful. Step outside the metropolis, though, and a different Japan emerges. Rural communities are quiet and compact. Homes are small, often with little to no garden. All the green you see is purposeful—either cultivated in tiny rice plots or stretching into forested mountains. There’s a calmness to these towns, a slower rhythm that feels like a deep breath after Tokyo’s charge. It’s a striking contrast—and a reminder that Japan’s beauty lies not just in its modern marvels, but in its quiet contradictions.

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Day 7: Kamakura – Zen, Buddha & Bamboo

Took the 1 hour trip via JR to Kamakura for a day of temple hopping: the Great Buddha, Hasedera Temple, and the soothing Bamboo Garden. Highly walkable and meditative. Watch out for school groups and street food—you’ll want to try everything.

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Day 8: Kyoto Temples, Tea and History

Zoomed to Kyoto via the Nozomi Shinkansen (fastest train, fewer stops, and no JR Pass needed—more on that later). Stayed at the Cross Hotel Kyoto—great location.

Nishiki Market? Total tourist trap. Loved it anyway. Also: Kyoto’s knife shops are on another level. If I had known, I’d have waited to buy mine here. We spent the evening walking the main street of Geisha district and

 

Mt Fuji

 

 

under the lights of Yasaka Shrine and Pagoda.

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Day 9: Fushimi Inari & Sake Heaven

Beat the crowds to Fushimi Inari Shrine. Pro tip: the best view is halfway up at Yotsutsuji—not the summit. There’s a secret bamboo forest entrance, but I learned about it after the hike. (Next time!)

Post-hike, we soaked in sake culture at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum and the Sake Village—a literal booze playground for grown-ups. 

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Day 10: Gold Shrines & Geisha Streets

Visited Kyoto’s famous golden shrine, Kinkaku-ji, then wandered through the storied Nijo Castle. Joined another GuruWalk through Gion at sunset—Geisha sightings included. Ended the night with a pair of Onitsuka Tigers (and another knife, because… Japan). 

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Day 11: Bamboo Forest & A Samurai That Wasn’t

Bamboo Forest

Explored the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest and strolled through town. Rain cut our golden temple visit short, but we still managed a tea ceremony (kimono-free) and a disappointing Samurai experience  (husband's verdict: meh).

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Day 12: Nara – Big Buddha & Bambi

We wrapped up our day trip to Nara with a visit to Todai-ji Temple to meet the Great Buddha—serene, enormous, and a must-see. Nara Park, meanwhile, was overrun with deer who’ve clearly figured out tourists = snacks. Let’s just say they don’t understand personal space. Or subtlety.

By evening, we hopped on a short train to Osaka and checked into a hotel in the Umeda district. It’s a lively area with plenty of shopping and dining, but not much in terms of major attractions. For atmosphere and energy, Dotonbori is where Osaka truly comes alive.

Now, let’s talk about Japan’s train stations. They’re not stations—they’re subterranean cities. Umeda Station in Osaka is a particularly cruel maze. Multi-level, endless exits, and a full-blown shopping complex thrown in for extra chaos. Twice, we attempted to find highly recommended restaurants. Google showed "Done". Reality said "Good luck." We asked locals. We followed walking directions. We walked in circles for what felt like hours. Never found them. Japan may have perfected punctuality, but train station navigation? That's still a work in progress.

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Day 13: Osaka Streetfood and Nightlife

Osaka Castle

Explored Osaka Castle, Dotonbori, and Shinsaibashi Arcade. Ate too much, walked it off, and watched Namba nightlife come alive. 

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Day 14: Hiroshima & Miyajima Island

Hiroshima

An emotional visit to Hiroshima’s Peace Memorial Park and the Atomic Bomb Dome left us reflective and quiet. History weighs heavy for generations—and it should. Given the war in Ukraine and in Palestine, this trip felt so heavy. Wars are never the answer.  

Miyajima Island

Afterward, we took the 45-minute ferry (conveniently departing from right near the park) to Miyajima Island to visit the iconic “floating” torii gate. The tide was out, so it wasn’t technically floating, but still—majestic. Towering, tranquil, unforgettable. And the oysters? Fresh off the grill, melt-in-your-mouth, worth flying back for. 

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Day 15: Farewell to Japan

Late flight out of Kansai Airport. Bags heavier (knives, shoes, KitKats, Korean skincare, sake-so tempted but did not buy and lots of lots of great memories), heart fuller.

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Travel Tips: Rail Passes, Etiquette & Budgeting

• JR Pass? We skipped it. Unless you plan to ping-pong across Japan, individual tickets may be cheaper and more flexible.

• Transport: Suica Card on Apple Wallet is life. Subway 1-3 day passes are cheap and useful.

• Cash: Best rates were at 7-Eleven ATMs.

• Language barrier? Google Translate is your best friend.

• Trip MVP? Google Maps for all transit guidance, obviously.

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Arigato Japan. You were polite, precise, superbly efficient and painfully beautiful. Sayonara!