Part 2: Deep into the Green — Our Amazon Rainforest Adventure

Our Peru and Galápagos adventure took us from Lima (3 days) → Amazon Rainforest → Sacred Valley → Machu Picchu → Cusco → Galápagos Islands. 

After exploring Lima's bustling neighborhoods, historic landmarks, and fabulous food scene, it was time for a complete change of scenery.

We traded city streets for muddy jungle trails, air-conditioned comfort for tropical humidity, and the sounds of traffic for the mysterious calls of the rainforest.

A short flight from Lima brought us to Puerto Maldonado, the gateway to Peru's southern Amazon basin.

And just like that, we were off on an entirely different kind of adventure!

Packing Light in Puerto Maldonado

Tambopata River

Before heading into the rainforest, we made a quick stop in Puerto Maldonado to repack our bags.

Getting to our jungle lodge involved several stages of transportation, including a motorized boat ride along the river, with luggage carried by hand along the way. Large suitcases and heavy duffel bags were simply not practical.

So we transferred our essentials into smaller, lightweight bags and daypacks, leaving the rest of our luggage safely stored at the local office until our return.

A few changes of clothes, rain gear, insect repellent, hiking shoes, and a healthy sense of adventure—that was pretty much all we needed.

Or so we thought!

Journey into the Jungle — The Tambopata River

From the river port, we boarded a motorized wooden longboat for an approximately 90-minute journey along the Tambopata River.

The river was wide, muddy, and powerful, winding through an endless sea of green. 

As we traveled farther into the rainforest, civilization gradually disappeared. The sounds of traffic gave way to the steady hum of insects, the calls of tropical birds, and the occasional rustling of vegetation along the riverbanks.

Stairs from the river to the lodge

Towering trees lined both sides of the river, their branches reaching out over the water. Every so often, we would scan the banks hoping to spot a capybara, a colorful bird, or perhaps something more exotic. 

The farther we traveled, the more remote everything felt.

No roads, no traffic, no city lights—just the river and the rainforest stretching endlessly around us.

Posada Amazonas — Jungle Living with a Twist!

Our home for the next few days was Posada Amazonas, a beautiful eco-lodge operated in partnership with the local Indigenous Ese Eja community.

The lodge blends surprisingly comfortable accommodations with a truly immersive rainforest experience.

Our rooms were spacious, clean, and well-appointed, with wooden furnishings, comfortable beds, and even a hammock.

But there was one rather unusual feature.

One entire wall of our bedroom was completely open to the jungle!

No glass windows. No screens. No solid wall separating us from the rainforest.

Just a wooden railing, a hammock, and the warm, humid jungle air flowing right through.

Imagine sleeping in a room where the rainforest is practically an extension of your bedroom!

The Jungle's Nighttime Orchestra

If you think the rainforest becomes quiet after sunset, think again.

The jungle comes alive at night, with an extraordinary chorus of insects, frogs, birds, and other creatures calling to one another.

And then there were the howler monkeys!

Their deep, rumbling calls sounded uncannily like low-flying airplanes passing overhead. The first time we heard them, we couldn't quite believe that such an enormous sound could come from a monkey.

The first night was a little disorienting. Every unfamiliar rustle or call made us wonder what was happening outside our open bedroom.

But surprisingly, by the following night, the jungle's constant soundtrack had become almost soothing—a rhythmic white noise that lulled us to sleep.

Who needs a white-noise machine when you have the entire Amazon rainforest outside your bedroom?

Our Unexpected Roommates

Of course, having an open wall also meant that some of the local residents occasionally decided to visit.

Frogs and little lizards hanging out on our bedroom walls were apparently just part of everyday life here.

For those of us accustomed to keeping wildlife firmly outside our homes, this took a little getting used to!

But these little creatures were harmless companions, and the lizards were probably doing us a favor by helping control the insects.

After the initial surprise, we began to appreciate the experience for what it was.

We hadn't come all the way to the Amazon to stay in a sealed, air-conditioned hotel room. We had come to experience the rainforest.

And the rainforest was certainly delivering!

Meals, New Friends, and Jungle Rules

One of the unexpected pleasures of Posada Amazonas was the communal dining experience.

Guests were assigned to small groups, each with a dedicated naturalist guide. We ate together at long tables in the lodge's open dining area, sharing hearty breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and freshly prepared afternoon snacks.

The food was surprisingly good, with plenty of fresh ingredients and local flavors. 

Mealtimes quickly became social occasions, with everyone swapping stories about the day's adventures, wildlife sightings, and occasional jungle surprises.

We became particularly friendly with a wonderful group of Australians, and what began as casual conversations over meals turned into friendships that have continued long after the trip.

One of the joys of travel is that sometimes the people you meet become as memorable as the places you visit.

There was, however, one important rule at the lodge.

Never wander off into the jungle without your guide!

The forest is incredibly dense, trails can look deceptively similar, and it is remarkably easy to lose your sense of direction.

So every excursion, whether a daytime hike or a nighttime wildlife walk, was accompanied by our knowledgeable local guide.

And as we soon discovered, having an experienced guide made all the difference between simply walking through a forest and actually seeing the extraordinary life hidden within it.

Wildlife Spotting — A Jungle Treasure Hunt

Exploring the Amazon is a little different from going on an African safari.

Here, the wildlife doesn't necessarily come out into the open for you to admire. Much of it is hidden high in the canopy, camouflaged among the leaves, or quietly moving through the undergrowth.

You have to look carefully, listen closely, and, most importantly, be patient. 

Fortunately, our guides seemed to have an almost supernatural ability to spot creatures we would never have noticed on our own.

Every excursion became a treasure hunt.

Parrots, Macaws, and the Clay Licks

One of the most colorful experiences was visiting the clay licks, where parrots and macaws gather along exposed clay-rich riverbanks.

Imagine dozens of brilliantly colored birds—vivid greens, reds, blues, and yellows—flying overhead, squawking loudly, and settling along the riverbank.

The birds consume the clay, which scientists believe may help provide minerals and, in some cases, bind certain dietary toxins.

Whatever the scientific explanation, the spectacle was wonderful.  

Macaws at Clay Licks

The rainforest suddenly transformed into a noisy, colorful gathering of birds, all seemingly competing to make themselves heard.

Nature's own morning social club!

Night Walks — When the Jungle Really Comes Alive

Howler Monkeys

If the jungle is fascinating during the day, it becomes an entirely different world after dark.

Armed with flashlights and following our guide, we ventured onto the forest trails for a nighttime walk.

Every beam of light seemed to reveal something new—tiny insects, tree frogs clinging to leaves, and strange little creatures moving through the undergrowth.

And then came the tarantulas.

Large, hairy spiders resting beside the trail, looking perfectly comfortable in their natural habitat.

I can't say that standing a few feet away from a tarantula was particularly high on my bucket list!

But watching these creatures in the wild, rather than behind glass in a zoo, was undeniably fascinating.

We quickly learned that the rainforest belongs to its residents. We were simply visitors passing through.

Capybaras and Other Forest Residents

Along the riverbanks, we were fortunate to spot capybaras, the world's largest living rodents. 

These rather adorable, barrel-shaped animals seem wonderfully relaxed about life, often lounging near the water or quietly grazing along the banks.

We also encountered a variety of tropical birds, including the unusual grey-winged trumpeter, a ground-dwelling forest bird with a distinctive appearance and call.

Every sighting felt like a small victory.

And sometimes the greatest excitement came not from seeing an animal clearly, but from hearing something moving in the dense vegetation and wondering what might be hiding just a few feet away.

Above the Canopy — A Bird's-Eye View of the Amazon

One of the absolute highlights of our stay was climbing the lodge's canopy observation tower.

After making our way up the tall wooden structure, we emerged above the treetops into a completely different world.

Until then, we had experienced the rainforest mostly from below, walking beneath a dense green canopy that blocked much of the sky.

But from the tower, the forest stretched endlessly in every direction—a vast, undulating carpet of green, broken only by the occasional towering tree rising above the rest.

As the sun began to dip toward the horizon, the jungle took on a beautiful golden glow.

And then came the macaws.

Flocks of brilliant red-and-green macaws flew past, sometimes almost at eye level, their colors flashing against the deep green forest.

In the distance, howler monkeys called from the treetops, their voices echoing across the canopy.

It was one of those moments when you simply stop talking and take it all in.

Standing above the Amazon rainforest at sunset, watching colorful macaws fly past while monkeys called in the distance, was truly magical.

The Sacred Tree — A Giant of the Rainforest

Another memorable excursion took us deep into the primary forest to visit an enormous ancient kapok tree.

Kapok trees are among the giants of the tropical rainforest, capable of growing to extraordinary heights, with massive trunks and enormous buttress roots spreading outward like natural walls.

Standing at the base of this magnificent tree, we felt incredibly small. 

The roots alone towered above us, and the trunk rose so high that its upper branches seemed to disappear into the canopy.

These trees play an important role in the rainforest ecosystem, providing shelter and habitat for countless birds, insects, and other creatures.

For many Indigenous Amazonian communities, giant trees such as the kapok also hold deep cultural and spiritual significance.

It was humbling to stand beneath something so enormous and ancient, surrounded by a forest that has evolved over millions of years.

A reminder that long before humans arrived, nature had already perfected the art of building skyscrapers!

Spot the Owl!

One of the delights of exploring the Amazon rainforest was discovering just how well its residents could hide in plain sight! Take this little owl, perfectly camouflaged among the dense foliage. With its beautiful feathered tufts, watchful eyes, and brown plumage blending into the surrounding branches, it was almost impossible to spot. We could have walked right past without noticing it! Thankfully, our guide's sharp eyes caught what ours would surely have missed. A wonderful reminder that in the Amazon, the wildlife is often watching you long before you spot it!

Leaving the Amazon — A Different Perspective

Our time in the Amazon was unlike anything else we had experienced in Peru.

There were no grand monuments, ancient temples, or elaborate architectural wonders.

Instead, the wonder was all around us—in the towering trees, the endless shades of green, the calls of unseen creatures, and the extraordinary complexity of life thriving in every corner of the forest.

It was hot, humid, occasionally muddy, and certainly outside our usual comfort zone.

But that was precisely what made it memorable.

We had slept with an entire wall open to the jungle, shared our rooms with unexpected little visitors, climbed above the rainforest canopy, watched colorful macaws soar past, and made new friends along the way.

And perhaps most importantly, we came away with a greater appreciation for just how extraordinary—and fragile—this ecosystem really is.

The Amazon doesn't reveal all its secrets at once. You have to slow down, listen, observe, and let the forest come alive around you.

As we boarded our boat for the journey back to Puerto Maldonado, we were already looking forward to the next chapter of our adventure.

From the humid depths of the Amazon, we would soon be heading into the crisp mountain air of the Andes, exploring the Sacred Valley and following ancient Inca pathways toward Machu Picchu.

From the green heart of the rainforest to the clouds of the Andes—Peru certainly knows how to keep an adventure interesting!

Part 4: Hiking in the Clouds — The Short Inca Trail to Machu Pichu

Days 6 & 7 — The Short Inca Trail and Machu Picchu

There are places you visit, places you enjoy, and then there are places you have to work a little harder to reach.

Machu Picchu was definitely the latter!

After several days exploring Lima and the Sacred Valley, we were finally ready for perhaps the most anticipated part of our Peru adventure—the **Short Inca Trail to Machu Picchu**.

We had chosen the two-day Short Inca Trail, which combines a day of hiking along ancient Inca pathways with a visit to the magnificent ruins of Machu Picchu. Unlike the traditional four-day trek, this route offers a taste of the original Inca Trail without having to camp overnight in the mountains.

And what a taste it turned out to be!

Day 6 — Following the Footsteps of the Incas - An Early Start and a Train Ride Through the Andes

Our adventure began with an early morning train ride aboard the **PeruRail Vistadome**, winding through the dramatic Urubamba River valley toward Machu Picchu.

The train itself was quite an experience. Large panoramic windows offered spectacular views of the mountains towering above us, while the tracks followed the rushing Urubamba River through an ever-changing landscape.

As we descended into the valley, the scenery gradually transformed. The relatively bare Andean mountains gave way to dense green vegetation, steep forested slopes, and clouds clinging to the mountain peaks.

Along the way, we passed local residents working in their terraced fields, often dressed in traditional Andean clothing—bright reds, intricate woven patterns, and colorful hats. A lovely reminder that the traditions we had been learning about were still very much alive.

We also caught glimpses of the powerful Urubamba River rushing through narrow mountain gorges. This river system helps generate hydroelectric power for southern Peru, including at the Machu Picchu Hydroelectric Plant. Looking at the sheer force of the water, it wasn't difficult to understand why the region was chosen for hydroelectric generation.

Unlike most passengers heading directly to Machu Picchu, we got off at **Km 104**, the starting point of the Short Inca Trail.

This was where our leisurely sightseeing officially ended and the hiking began!

Km 104 — Let the Adventure Begin! 

The Short Inca Trail starts at approximately **7,200 feet above sea level**, near the Urubamba River. From here, the route climbs through subtropical cloud forests, past ancient Inca ruins, and eventually reaches the famous Sun Gate overlooking Machu Picchu.

The hike covers approximately **12 kilometers (7.5 miles)**, typically taking around six to seven hours, depending on your pace, with significant elevation gain and, as we would soon discover, an astonishing number of stone steps.

After crossing the river and completing the trail checkpoint formalities, we began our climb.

The trail was beautiful from the very beginning. Towering mountains surrounded us, the Urubamba River roared far below, and wisps of cloud drifted through the valleys.

But the beauty came with a price.

The Incas apparently had a great fondness for stairs!

And not the evenly spaced, predictable stairs we are accustomed to. These were ancient stone steps—some narrow, some steep, some uneven, and many made slippery by the occasional drizzle and damp mountain weather. 

Every time we thought we had conquered the last staircase, another one appeared around the corner.

Into the Cloud Forest

As we climbed higher, the landscape became increasingly lush.

We walked through dense vegetation, moss-covered rocks, ferns, and trees draped with delicate strands of moss. Clouds floated in and out of the mountains, sometimes revealing dramatic views of the valley and sometimes wrapping everything in a blanket of mist.

It was easy to understand why this region is called a cloud forest.

The trail itself was fascinating. Much of the route follows pathways originally built by the Incas more than 500 years ago, connecting settlements, agricultural terraces, and ceremonial centers across their vast  empire.

Imagine building these stone pathways through such rugged mountains without modern machinery! And imagine pilgrims traveling from distant settlements to sacred sites, navigating this difficult terrain while carrying food, offerings, and gifts.

Then imagine Inca messengers and travelers climbing these same steps regularly, carrying supplies and messages between settlements.

We were struggling with our lightweight backpacks, hiking poles, frequent water breaks, and modern hiking shoes. **The Incas certainly had our respect!**

A Welcome Lunch Break

By midday, we were more than ready for a break.

One of the simple pleasures of the hike was sitting down at a sheltered rest stop, surrounded by fellow trekkers, and enjoying a much-needed lunch.

Nothing fancy—just a packed meal carried by a porter, a chance to rest our legs, and the satisfaction of knowing we had already covered a good portion of the trail.

There is something about eating after several hours of hiking that makes even the simplest food taste wonderful.

Of course, we still had plenty of climbing ahead!

Wiñay Wayna — Forever Young 

Wiñay Wayna

One of the highlights of the Short Inca Trail is **Wiñay Wayna**, an extraordinary Inca archaeological site perched on a steep mountainside.

The name means *Forever Young* in Quechua, an Indigenous Andean language spoken during the Inca Empire and still widely spoken in Peru today. The site takes its name from an orchid found in the region.

Wiñay Wayna is famous for its sweeping agricultural terraces, stone buildings, and ceremonial structures that seem to cling almost impossibly to the mountainside.

Unlike Machu Picchu, which attracts thousands of visitors, Wiñay Wayna feels more secluded, particularly after making the effort to reach it on foot.

Standing among these ruins, surrounded by mist-covered mountains and dense forests, we couldn't help wondering how the Incas managed to construct such elaborate settlements in terrain that is difficult enough simply to walk through.

The precision of the stonework, sophisticated drainage systems, steep staircases, and agricultural terraces are remarkable.

And once again, we were reminded that the Incas didn't try to conquer the landscape. They learned to build with it.

The Final Climb — And Those Stairs!

Monkey Steps

Beyond Wiñay Wayna, the trail continues toward **Intipunku, the Sun Gate**, the traditional entrance to Machu Picchu for travelers arriving along the Inca Trail.

But before reaching the gate, there is one final challenge.

A particularly steep flight of stone steps, sometimes called the Monkey Steps or Gringo Killer Steps!

These are not ordinary stairs. The steps are so high and steep that hikers often use both hands and feet to climb them—hence the nickname *Monkey Steps*.

Looking at our photographs, you can see exactly what I mean. We were practically scrambling up the stones, holding onto whatever we could for balance.

At that point, elegance was no longer a consideration. Getting to the top was the only objective!

And somehow, after hours of climbing, we made it.

The Sun Gate — Our First Glimpse of Machu Picchu 

The Sun Gate sits high above Machu Picchu, at approximately **8,900 feet**, and historically served as an important entrance to the sacred city.

For hikers on the Inca Trail, reaching this point is particularly special. Rather than arriving by bus at the main entrance, you approach Machu Picchu along the same mountain pathways used by the Incas centuries ago.

After hours of hiking through forests, clouds, and mountains, we had finally reached the moment we had been waiting for—our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.

Except there was one small problem. We couldn't see a thing!

When we arrived at the Sun Gate, the entire valley was covered in thick white clouds. Somewhere beneath that blanket of mist was the magnificent Inca citadel we had worked so hard to reach.

We were told to be patient. Wait ten minutes, and the clouds might clear.

And sure enough, the clouds began to shift, slowly revealing glimpses of the ancient city nestled between towering green peaks.

What a sight! 

There it was—an architectural marvel perched dramatically on a mountain ridge, its stone terraces and buildings emerging through the drifting clouds.

There is something incredibly empowering about reaching a destination like this on foot. It wasn't just the six hours of hiking that brought us here. It was also the weeks of preparation back home—local hikes, cardio workouts, and training to build the stamina needed for hiking at altitude.

Standing there, looking down at Machu Picchu, every bit of that preparation suddenly felt worthwhile.

**It wasn't just about seeing the place. It was about the journey that brought us there.**

And we weren't quite finished yet!

From the Sun Gate, we still had roughly another hour of descent along ancient, sometimes slippery stone pathways before reaching the panoramic viewpoints overlooking Machu Picchu.

After taking in the spectacular views and, of course, plenty of photographs, we finally headed down toward **Aguas Calientes**, the small town at the base of Machu Picchu.

A hot shower, a good meal, and a comfortable bed had never sounded more appealing!

Tomorrow, we would return to explore the ancient city itself.

Day 7 — Machu Picchu: The Lost City of the Incas

After the previous day's adventure, it was finally time to explore **Machu Picchu** itself.

Perched high on a mountain ridge at approximately **7,970 feet above sea level**, Machu Picchu is one of the most extraordinary archaeological sites in the world.

Built in the 15th century during the reign of the Inca emperor Pachacuti, it is believed to have served as a royal estate and ceremonial center.

Although known to local communities, Machu Picchu remained largely unknown internationally until American explorer **Hiram Bingham brought it to worldwide attention in 1911**.

Today, Machu Picchu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

But no amount of reading or looking at photographs quite prepares you for seeing this magnificent place in person.

A City Built Among the Clouds

What strikes you first is the setting.

Machu Picchu is surrounded by towering green mountains, with the Urubamba River winding through the deep valley far below.

And then there is the city itself.

Stone houses, temples, plazas, staircases, and agricultural terraces seem to emerge naturally from the mountainside.

There are no towering monuments or elaborate decorative facades. Instead, the beauty lies in the simplicity and extraordinary precision of the construction.

Massive stones were carefully shaped and fitted together without mortar, creating walls that have survived centuries of earthquakes, rain, and weather.

The Incas were masters of engineering, astronomy, agriculture, and water management.

They built terraces to stabilize the steep slopes, drainage systems to manage the heavy rainfall, and channels to bring fresh water through the settlement.

What is perhaps most remarkable is that all of this was accomplished without iron tools, wheeled transport, or modern construction equipment.

More Than Just Ancient Ruins

Walking through Machu Picchu, you begin to appreciate that this was not simply a collection of buildings on a mountaintop.

It was a carefully planned settlement, with agricultural areas, residential quarters, ceremonial spaces, and structures aligned with important astronomical events.

The Incas had an extraordinary understanding of their natural environment.

The mountains were sacred, the sun played a central role in their spiritual beliefs, and the changing seasons guided agricultural life.

Even the placement of certain buildings reflects this deep connection between architecture, astronomy, and nature.

It is fascinating to think that a civilization capable of such sophisticated engineering left behind relatively no written records in the conventional sense.

So much of what we know today comes from archaeology, oral traditions, and the remarkable structures that have survived.

And perhaps that is part of Machu Picchu's enduring mystery.

Was the Hike Worth It?

Absolutely. Hiking the ancient trail gave us a completely different appreciation for the site.

We had walked through the cloud forest, climbed the endless stone staircases, passed centuries-old ruins, and experienced firsthand the dramatic geography that shaped Inca civilization.

By the time we reached Machu Picchu, it felt less like arriving at a tourist attraction and more like completing a journey.

**The destination was magnificent, but the experience of getting there made it unforgettable.**

After all, some of the best travel memories aren't made when everything is easy and comfortable. They come from challenging yourself, stepping a little outside your comfort zone, and discovering that you are capable of more than you thought.

**Machu Picchu was certainly one of those experiences for us.**

Costa Rica Travelogue (Day 4-8)

Day 4: We took a break from all the adventures and saved this day for a bit of site seeing. We walked up to the rim of Poas, an active volcano crater. Although there was no rain that morning, the fog was too heavy for us to see the crater at all. We are told that the sight is something to behold. After the crater we went to La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This is a walk through the Vara Blanca Cloud Forest and goes through 5 waterfalls. The entire walk is paved but wet, so easy for both adults and kids though the length and the climb can be tiring for adults.

Day 5: We headed south towards Dominical area (Pacific ocean side) where the mountains meet the ocean. The drive to the beach was long and tiring. We passed over the mountains as high as 13,000ft high. We stayed at an Inn called Necochea, a private home tucked up in the mountain and surrounded by the jungle with a nice gurgling stream right outside the kitchen. A short drive down, the stream ended in a nice swim hole where my husband loved going for a dip. It felt like a private stream with its own waterfall and a swim hole. We used to wake up to the sounds of howler monkeys and toucans.

Day 6: This was a rappelling day, over the Nauyaca (Baru) falls, a beautiful double-decker falls. Basically you get to the bottom of the fall by rappelling down and then hike to a small but beautiful swim hole. The rappelling was initially scary, especially when it is time to go over the edge of the cliff. But when I got down and looked up, I wished I could do it all over again. Our 7 year old was too young for this, but our 10 year old was able to rappel. Of the three activities (zip lining, whitewater rafting and rappelling), our 10 year loved zip lining, rafting and rappelling in that order. Because of his light body weight, rappelling was a bit of hard work for him and he had to be assisted by the guide who was rappelling alongside. Our 7 year old hiked down to the swim hole with one of the guides and waited for us. After rappelling, we hung out by the falls, our really fun guides (a family of three) had prepared a nice lunch for us that we ate right there for a very relaxing afternoon.

Day 7, this day we had the option of going sea-kayaking, spending day at the beach or go whale watching. We chose to go whale watching. We saw two humpback whales, and few dolphins. Because of the rain the previous night, the water closer to the beach was very muddy so we chose not to snorkel, but in clear season, the water in the bay is supposedly very clear and supports a huge variety of fishes and beautiful snorkeling.

Day 8: This was our morning on the beach. The rocky coastline was lined with awesome beaches some of them with caves that people could paddle around in kayaks. We found a beach with two caves that connected the beach to the ocean creating a blow hole. These caves were perfect for body surfing or surf boarding. Such pristine beaches are what Costa Rica is all about, a place where the rainforests meet the ocean with nothing but a small slivers of sand in between...Costa Rica is Pura Vida.

Pura Vida: Pure Life

Costa Rica Travelogue (Day 1-3)

Our trip to Costa Rica was in the middle of August. Costa Rica promotes this time of the year as the “green” season, we all however call it the rainy season. As with most of our family trips, we used a small privately owned and locally operated company called Tico Tom Tours. Our main focus for this trip was to experience various adventure activities. We chose to skip visiting the northern pacific side of the country, where most of the major resorts are located. For lack of time, we could not go down south to Osa either, but hopefully our next trip to CR will include OSA. Our itinerary scheduled our activities in the mornings. Although it was the rainy season fortunately all our mornings were dry. Right around 2pm every day, it would start raining, at which point we used to stop for lunch and relax in our hotel. In the evenings we went out for dinner, rain or no rain. In fact, the rain created a very tropical ambiance. We had warm weather, pouring rain, nice dinner, all the while surrounded by the sounds of nature. If you are into nature & adventure tourism, Costa Rica is a good place to be during the rainy season.

On day 1, upon our arrival at Alajuela airport, we were met by our guide. We swallowed some dramamine and drove straight to the Arenal area. The drive from the airport is about 3 hours, so a morning or early afternoon arrival works best with our itin. We stayed at Arenal Resort, under the majestic presence of Arenal Volcano. The resort was about 3-4 star. The rooms were small but comfy; there was a swimming pool and a restaurant on the premises. Buffet breakfast was included. At night, from our bedroom we could see the smoke coming out the volcano. We had to take a short drive from the hotel to a lookout point, to see the lava pouring down its side. Since it was cloudy at the time we were there, we only got a brief glimpse of the lava. Nevertheless, Arenal area and the volcano are beautiful and a “must see”.

On Day 2, our big activity was zip lining through the rainforest. Zip lining constituted of 8 separate zips from one mountain to another to get to the bottom. Once we started, there was no turning back. Our 7 yr old was too young to zip (no harnesses for a small body. Hindsight, even if they did, I don’t think we would have felt comfortable with him ziping 8 times from one mountain to another). Our 10 yr old was able to zip with the guide. I fear we may have inadvertently created an extreme sports kid. He was scared but absolutely loved the thrill that came with it. After zip lining, we went for a short hike to La Fortuna falls and later that evening we dined and relaxed at Tabacon hotsprings. I confess, the day was a bit too hectic for the kids. Spending the eve relaxing in a hotspring was god sent and now I consider it a must do. It was drizzling while we were soaking, the outside air a bit cool but the water warmed by the lava was heavenly. We spent about an hour in the hot springs jumping from one pool to another. If we ever go back, I would without a doubt spend more than an hour there.



Day 3, we headed to the Sarapiqui river for whitewater rafting. It is a class II (mostly) & III river. This activity was perfect for both our kids. Because it was the “green” season, the river was full and the water level perfect for rafting. The flow was brisk but not too fast for the kids. We barely had to paddle and both the kids got a chance to sit up front in the raft for the thrill. It was great! We stopped half way through the river for a swim and to eat watermelons. After rafting we headed towards the Central Valley.

Gangtok and Darjeeling (Part II)

The drive to Darjeeling was lush, and heavenly. The local farmers had set up roadside stalls every few hundred yards loaded with fresh produce. My father, who was travelling with us, was in absolute heaven. He would stop our car every few kilometers and stock up on fresh fruits and vegetables from these farmers. Instead of munching on chips and crackers we drove around in the car, munching on carrots and cucumbers and any other fresh vegetable my father could get his hands on laced with chaat masala (spice powder) and lemon juice.
The city of Darjeeling was much more of a tourist center and bigger than Gangtok. The area is surrounded by glorious tea estates, the neat rows of tea plants covering the entire hills giving a very majestic feel.

The tea gardens are a sight to cherish. Being in Darjeeling, you realize how aptly the area was coined as “Queen of the Hills” by the British. We used our car for a day’s worth of sightseeing which included Tensing Mountaineering Institute, Pagoda, Zoo, Tibetan Refugee Center and a few other focal points. Within the town itself, we walked just about everywhere. The walk to Chowrastha, and from there up the hill to the Mahakal Temple makes for a nice walk.

For people who want to experience an Indian monsoon, Darjeeling is a perfect place to be. I loved curling up with a book, sipping chai and munching on pakodas, quaint tea sandwiches and indian-chinese noodles. And when the rain let up, we would go out for nice walking tours within the city. All Indians who grew up in India will know exactly what I am talking about. I think you have to be an Indian at heart to cherish the monsoon. For all others, without a nice book or a large group of friends to keep the entertainment going, the constant rain can get very tiring as it did for my kids.

For anyone planning a future visit to Darjeeling and Gangtok, my advice, go to Darjeeling first and then to Gangtok. A visit to a tea plantation is a must especially if you like to drink tea. Only a few tea plantations are open to public. If you are planning to buy Darjeeling tea, go to any large retailer in town and smell the various tea leaves, ask the retailer to explain the various harvesting seasons and their influence on the flavor, sample the one you like the most and then buy.

Gangtok and Darjeeling (Part I)

Last year, during our summer visit to India, we decided to spend a week in Gangtok (Sikkim) and Darjeeling (West Bengal) in the cooler Northeastern states.

From Delhi we flew into Bagdogra via Deccan Air. For those who have not yet experienced India, watch out for that concept of lines. The concept of “waiting in line” along with the concept of personal space is almost nonexistent. It exists but only in the minds of visitors from abroad. Deccan Air had first come first seating. Never mind how many people had been patiently waiting in line, but when the gates opened, all those who had not been in the line, shoved and pushed and nudged and got inside the waiting craft. Naïve us who had the poor foresight to actually wait in line and were so busy being aghast at being shoved around, were the last few to board the aircraft. The flight itself turned out to be very comfortable, with freindly crew and actually landed on time.

At Bagdogra, we rented a 4X4 to Gangtok, medicated ourselves with Dramamine and started our trip. The drive from Bagdogra to Gangtok was approx 5 hour long, very winding and incredibly scenic. The drive was dotted by villages and little hamlets the entire way. Many times along the way we stopped for a breather, some hot Chai and Momos (dumplings). You can’t skip them momos.


At first glance, Gangtok was a really small and overcrowded town. The hills were covered by concrete buildings seemingly built haphazardly upon each other, the roads pretty steep and full of cars. The fumes from the cars constantly driving in low gear really got to us. There was not much to see within the town other than the local market but once we got beyond the town, the natural beauty was breathtaking. The Buddhist monasteries, the terraced rice fields, and the rivers overflowing with clear water were incredibly beautiful.

The people were warm, friendly, and always eager to strike up a conversation. Since we were in Gangtok for only two days, and that too in the middle of the monsoon season, we did not venture into the smaller (but highly recommended) towns of Pelling and Yuksom. And for the same reason, we did not even attempt to go for whitewater rafting or hiking. Our only regret is that, it was too cloudy the entire duration of our stay that we did not get to see the Kanchenjunga; the 3rd highest peak in the world.




Our most talked about incident involves our visit to the Rumtek Monastery. While at the monastery, we went to see the monks-in-training’s meditation and classroom area, and in the process we became friendly with a few young monks there. These monks invited us for chai and being tea lovers we readily accepted. The monastery kitchen was closed so I am not sure how they managed to make tea but their version of chai included boiling water with milk and ghee (clarified butter) in equal parts. No matter how much sugar we added, the tea was absolutely unpalatable. Our fear of being rude was so great that we kept on sipping (more like licking) it for almost an hour. We kept waiting for the monks to leave the room so we could discuss our predicament. That one hour was a lesson in the art of body language communication. After about an hour, when we could not take the taste or the smell of “monastery tea” anymore, we excused ourselves and insisted on washing the teacups (so they would not see all the tea we were throwing away) put some money in their donation box and left. I don’t think any of us enjoyed our food that day, even the hot and savory momos did nothing for our ruined palates.