After the ancient wonders of Machu Picchu and the breathtaking landscapes of Peru, it was time for the final chapter of our South American adventure—the Galápagos Islands, one of the most extraordinary wildlife destinations on Earth.
Located about 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, this remote archipelago in the Pacific Ocean is famous for its remarkable wildlife, volcanic landscapes, and, of course, its association with Charles Darwin's theory of evolution.
What makes the Galápagos truly special is that many of its animals have evolved with relatively few natural land predators and consequently show remarkably little fear of humans.
And we were about to discover just how little!
Getting to the Galápagos — A Journey in Itself
Getting from Cusco to the Galápagos was an adventure of its own.
We flew from Cusco to Lima, then onward to Bogotá, where we spent the night before catching another flight to San Cristóbal Island, one of the inhabited islands of the Galápagos archipelago.
By the time we finally arrived, we had crossed countries, airports, and time zones, trading the high Andes for the warm, salty air of the Pacific.
Waiting for us was our home for the next several days—an eight-cabin catamaran that would take us from island to island through this remarkable ecosystem.
Our Floating Home — Small Boat, Big Comfort!
Having traveled on large cruise ships such as Carnival and Princess, we weren't quite sure what to expect from a small expedition catamaran.
Would the cabins be tiny? Would we be squeezing ourselves into cramped bathrooms? Would there be enough space for everyone?
Well, we were pleasantly surprised!
Our catamaran had eight cabins, although there were only 14 passengers—seven couples—on our cruise.
The cabins were surprisingly spacious, with large windows offering wonderful views of the ocean. Even the bathrooms were roomier than those we had experienced on some large cruise ships!
The boat had a comfortable dining room that could seat 16 guests, two indoor lounge areas (one of which we never even used!), a bar, an outdoor lounge, and a rooftop sun deck perfect for soaking up the sun and watching the ocean.
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For a boat this size, it was remarkably well designed.
And then there was the crew.
We had a captain, an engineer, a chef, a sous-chef, a naturalist guide, a cruise director, a bartender, and two boatmen who helped with just about everything.
Nine crew members taking care of 14 passengers—not a bad ratio at all!
Everyone was friendly, attentive, and genuinely interested in making our experience enjoyable. From helping us board the small excursion boats to preparing meals and anticipating our needs, the crew made life aboard wonderfully comfortable.
When the Ocean Decides to Rock the Boat!
Now, there was one small catch.
While the catamaran was wonderfully stable when anchored, it was an entirely different story when we were moving between islands at night.
The Pacific Ocean has a mind of its own!
With the combination of wind, waves, and ocean swells, the boat could rock quite dramatically as we traveled from island to island.
And since much of our sailing happened overnight, we often went to bed in one location and woke up near another island.
Sleeping while the boat rocked back and forth took a little getting used to.
But the real challenge?
Getting up in the middle of the night to use the bathroom!
What should have been a simple ten-step walk became an exercise in balance, coordination, and occasionally grabbing onto whatever furniture happened to be nearby.
Who needs a gym when you can practice your balance on a rocking catamaran at 2 a.m.?
Fortunately, the boat was comfortable enough that we quickly settled into the rhythm of life at sea.
Life Aboard — Eat, Snorkel, Explore, Repeat!
One of the pleasures of traveling on a small expedition boat is that everything is organized around exploring the islands rather than entertainment aboard the ship.
There were no casinos, Broadway-style shows, or endless shopping arcades.
Instead, our days revolved around wildlife, snorkeling, island walks, and, of course, food!
And the food was excellent.
Our chef prepared fresh meals every day, with enough variety to satisfy everyone's preferences. There was always something delicious on the table.
Breakfast has always been my favorite meal, and I particularly enjoyed starting each day with a leisurely breakfast before heading out on our next adventure.
Our daily routine was fairly consistent.
After breakfast, we would head out for approximately an hour of snorkeling, exploring the underwater world around the islands.
Then it was back aboard for lunch, followed by an afternoon excursion—usually a guided hike or walk along one of the islands' designated trails.
And by evening, we would return to the catamaran for dinner, conversations with our fellow travelers, and perhaps a drink while watching the ocean.
It was a wonderful rhythm.
Eat, snorkel, explore, eat again, and repeat.
My kind of vacation!
The Galápagos — Where Wildlife Has the Right of Way
One of the most fascinating aspects of visiting the Galápagos is how carefully the islands are protected.
Much of the archipelago is part of the Galápagos National Park, with strict conservation regulations designed to protect its fragile ecosystems.
Visitors cannot simply wander wherever they please.
On the protected islands we visited, we were required to stay on designated trails and explore with our licensed naturalist guide.
There was no wandering off to investigate an interesting rock formation or taking shortcuts across the landscape.
And once we started encountering the wildlife, it became obvious why these rules are so important.
Because in the Galápagos, the animals have absolutely no intention of moving out of your way!
Swimming withh the Sea Lions — The Real Owners of the Islands
If there is one animal that completely stole my heart in the Galápagos, it was the sea lion.
They were everywhere!
Sleeping on beaches, lounging on rocks, rolling around in the sand, swimming in the water, and occasionally occupying the very paths we were supposed to walk on.
Some were stretched out in the sun, looking utterly content with life. Others were barking, playing, or noisily arguing with one another.
And the babies were simply adorable.
What amazed me most was how completely unconcerned they were about humans.
You could be walking along a trail and suddenly find a sea lion sprawled across it, fast asleep, with absolutely no intention of moving.
We often had to carefully maneuver around them, giving them space while trying to stay on the designated path.
In the Galápagos, the sea lions don't move for tourists. The tourists move for sea lions!
I could have spent hours simply sitting and watching them.
Their expressions, their playful behavior, the way they interacted with one another—there was something endlessly entertaining about these animals.
The Sea Lion and the Sharks — A Real-Life Wildlife Drama!
One of our most memorable wildlife encounters was something straight out of a nature documentary.
We spotted three sharks circling in the water, while a sea lion appeared to be trying desperately to get away from them.
And where did the sea lion decide to seek refuge?
On a boat!
Watching the sea lion scramble out of the water and onto the boat to escape the circling sharks was extraordinary.
We had already been impressed by how effortlessly sea lions could move between water, sand, and rocky shorelines.
But watching one haul itself onto a boat took that admiration to another level!
It was a vivid reminder that, despite their playful appearance and seemingly carefree lives, these animals inhabit a wild environment where survival is a daily reality.
And sometimes, even a sea lion needs a little help from a boat!
Iguanas, Lizards, and Other Prehistoric-Looking Residents
If sea lions were my favorites, the reptiles were a different story.
I have never been particularly fond of reptiles.
And the Galápagos has plenty of them!
Marine iguanas, land iguanas, and lava lizards seemed to be everywhere.
Marine iguanas were particularly fascinating. These dark, prehistoric-looking creatures are the only lizards in the world that forage in the ocean.
They spend much of their time basking on volcanic rocks, warming themselves after feeding on algae in the cold Pacific waters.
They look rather intimidating, with their spiky backs, long claws, and dragon-like faces.
But despite their appearance, they are primarily herbivores.
Land iguanas, with their yellowish coloring and sturdy bodies, were equally interesting, while tiny lava lizards darted around the rocks and trails.
And just like the sea lions, these creatures showed very little interest in getting out of our way.
Sometimes it felt as though we were carefully navigating an obstacle course of sleeping sea lions, lounging iguanas, and scurrying lizards.
Not exactly my favorite collection of animals, but fascinating nonetheless!
A Birdwatcher's Paradise
The Galápagos is also a paradise for bird lovers, even those of us who don't normally consider ourselves serious birdwatchers.
We saw an astonishing variety of birds, many found nowhere else in the world.
Blue-Footed Boobies — Yes, That's Really Their Name!
Perhaps the most recognizable birds of the Galápagos are the blue-footed boobies.
And yes, their feet really are that blue!
These rather comical-looking seabirds have brilliant turquoise-blue feet that almost look as though someone dipped them in paint.
Their famous courtship ritual involves an exaggerated high-stepping dance in which the males lift their blue feet to impress potential mates.
Even when they weren't dancing, watching them waddle around on their oversized blue feet was entertaining.
Nature certainly has a sense of humor!
Albatrosses, Cormorants, and Flamingos
We also encountered albatrosses, magnificent seabirds known for their enormous wingspans and extraordinary ability to glide over the ocean.
The Galápagos is home to the waved albatross, a remarkable bird that spends much of its life at sea.
Then there were the flightless cormorants, unusual birds that evolved reduced wings and rely on their powerful legs to swim and dive for food.
And, adding a completely different splash of color, we saw beautiful pink flamingos in the wild.
Watching these elegant birds standing in shallow lagoons, their pink feathers contrasting with the volcanic landscape, was a lovely surprise.
The Magnificent Frigatebird — My Favorite!
But of all the birds we encountered, the one that excited me most was the frigatebird.
More specifically, the magnificent sight of a male frigatebird displaying his enormous, bright red throat pouch.
During courtship, the male inflates this pouch into a brilliant red balloon to attract females.
And what a spectacle it is!
Against his dark feathers, the inflated red pouch is absolutely striking.
I had seen photographs of these birds before, but seeing one displaying in the wild was something else entirely.
Of all the incredible birds we saw in the Galápagos, this was the one that truly stole the show for me!
And the Penguins?
Well, we weren't quite lucky enough to see everything.
The Galápagos is home to the Galápagos penguin, one of the few penguin species found near the equator.
We had hoped to spot one, but unfortunately, no penguins made an appearance during our visit.
I suppose even in a wildlife paradise, you can't expect every animal to show up on demand!
Giant Tortoises — The Gentle Giants of the Galápagos
Of course, no visit to the Galápagos would be complete without seeing its most famous residents—the giant tortoises.
These extraordinary animals are among the largest living tortoises in the world, with some weighing several hundred pounds and living well over 100 years.
Although we saw signs of tortoises in the wild, our actual sightings were at a tortoise breeding and conservation center.
And they were impressive!
Their enormous domed shells, thick elephant-like legs, and slow, deliberate movements make them look almost prehistoric.
Watching one slowly make its way across the ground, completely unhurried by anything around it, was fascinating.
The Galápagos giant tortoises have become symbols of conservation, particularly because several populations were once driven close to extinction by hunting, habitat destruction, and introduced species.
Breeding and restoration programs have played an important role in helping some populations recover.
Standing beside these magnificent creatures, it was hard not to think about how much the world has changed during their lifetimes.
And yet, here they were, moving along at their own leisurely pace, seemingly oblivious to the excitement they generated among visitors.
Perhaps there is a lesson in that—sometimes life is better enjoyed slowly!
Why the Galápagos Is So Special
What makes the Galápagos truly extraordinary isn't simply the number of animals you see.
It is the opportunity to observe wildlife behaving naturally, often just a few feet away, in an environment that has been carefully protected.
The islands themselves are strikingly different from one another—some covered in dark volcanic rock, others with beautiful sandy beaches, rugged coastlines, or lush vegetation.
And everywhere, there is life.
Sea lions sprawled across the beaches, marine iguanas basking on black lava rocks, blue-footed boobies waddling along the shore, frigatebirds soaring overhead, and giant tortoises slowly making their way through the landscape.
It is easy to understand why Charles Darwin's observations here helped shape his thinking about evolution and natural selection.
The Galápagos truly feels like nature's living laboratory, where geography, isolation, and time have produced some of the most unusual wildlife on Earth.
Would I Recommend a Small-Boat Galápagos Cruise?
Absolutely!
Traveling on a small catamaran was one of the best ways to experience the islands.
With only 14 passengers, we were able to enjoy a relaxed, intimate atmosphere, personalized attention from the crew, and daily excursions that brought us remarkably close to wildlife.
The accommodations were surprisingly comfortable, the food was excellent, and the naturalist guide added so much depth to everything we saw.
Of course, there were a few trade-offs.
The nighttime rocking could be quite dramatic, and if you are prone to seasickness, it is something worth considering.
And unlike a conventional cruise, the days were active, with snorkeling, walking, and exploring rather than lounging by a pool.
But that was precisely the appeal.
We hadn't come to the Galápagos for a luxury cruise experience. We had come to experience one of the most extraordinary natural environments on the planet.
And the catamaran gave us a front-row seat.
A Fitting End to Our South American Adventure
From the bustling streets and culinary delights of Lima to the steamy Amazon rainforest, the ancient agricultural terraces of the Sacred Valley, and the breathtaking Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Peru had already given us an incredible range of experiences.
And then came the Galápagos.
A place where sea lions own the beaches, iguanas lounge wherever they please, birds perform elaborate courtship dances, and giant tortoises remind us that there is absolutely no need to rush through life.
It was the perfect finale to a journey filled with history, adventure, fascinating cultures, extraordinary landscapes, and unforgettable wildlife.
Five very different chapters, one extraordinary South American adventure.
And perhaps that is what I love most about traveling. Just when you think you've seen something remarkable, the world surprises you all over again.
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