Two days in Porto and Duoro Valley, Portugal

 Arrival in Porto 

Arriving in Porto sets the stage for an enchanting evening in this Portuguese gem. After settling into your hotel or apartment, take a moment to freshen up and unwind. But don't linger too long, for the city has a delightful evening to offer. Start by strolling to the near by Monastery of Serra do Pilar, where you'll be rewarded with a magnificent view of Porto, particularly as the sun sets, painting the sky with warm hues. It's a breathtaking sight.

As the evening deepens, continue your adventure on the Gaia side of the Ribeira. Wander the narrow cobbled streets in the Wow cultural district. Walk towards the river and you'll find a plethora of charming cafes by the riverside offering many dining choices. Opt for a table facing the Porto side, to a stunning sunset spectacle. The lit bridge, the monastic silhouette, and the illuminated buildings on the Porto waterfront create a picturesque panorama that's just amazing.

Serra do Pilar

Day 1

Rise early next morning to embark on a day of exploration in Porto, Portugal. There is much to see, and your first stop should be Sao Bento, a place that's often hailed as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world – and rightly so. As you step into the station, you'll be greeted by a breathtaking sight. The walls are adorned with intricate blue and white azulejo tiles that tell the stories of Portugal's rich history. These meticulously hand-painted tiles transform the station into a living work of art, capturing the essence of the country's culture and heritage. Sao Bento is not just a transportation hub; it's a historical and architectural gem that will leave you in awe of the craftsmanship that went into its creation. So, rise early, and let Sao Bento be your first glimpse into the captivating beauty of Porto.

Once you've marveled at the artistic beauty of Sao Bento, stroll over to the Cathedral. As you ascend to the top, be sure to pause and wonder at the hand-painted tiled wall. Each tile tells a unique story, and the intricate details are bound to leave you in awe. It's a moment of quiet appreciation.

Sao Bento

 Porto Cathedral

If you did not go to the Monastery the evening before, now is another opportunity. Walk across the Ponte Luiz bridge and climb up the monastery for a great view. 

Return to Sao Bento but continue towards the city hall. Along the way stop to admire what might possibly be the most beautiful McDonald Imperial. 

On the right hand side of the city hall is a shopping district. Go to Majestic Cafe, where JK Rowling wrote several chapters of the first Harry Potter book, the Sorcerer Stone. Grab lunch at the cafe and walk about the lively shopping district.

Majestic Cafe

Walk to the Igreja des Carmelitas  and then on to Tower (Torre de Clerigos). If its still early in the afternoon, this might be a good time for a short break and to rest.

Walk on to Mercado Ferreira and then on to the riverside towards the wine museum (Museum Vinho do Porto). Continue to explore the city by foot visiting the beaches of Porto where the Duoro river meets the Atlantic ocean. Walk back towards the Ribeira to enjoy rest of the evening with a glass of Sangria, music and people watching at one of the many cafes, this time on the Porto side of the river.

Day 2: Douro Valley Trip

There are many ways to visit the Douro Valley (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/douro-valley-portugal), such as taking a train to and from Porto to Pinhao, or a river boat from Porto to Pinhao and back via the train. Both routes offer scenic beauty but neither will take you to visit a Quinta (vineyard). An option is to join a tour bus. We chose to rent a car and were fortunate to have a knowledgeable local guide from Porto.

Our day began early at 8:30 am, and after an hour of driving, we made a pit stop at Amarante (https://portugaltravelguide.com/amarante-portugal/), a charming town on the banks of Tâmega. A former monastery of São Gonçalo dates back to 1540 and houses a lovely interior of painted columns and a dramatic high altar. Here, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, savoring Brioche croissants, Amarante pastries, and coffee. After breakfast, we walked over to Don Rodrigo Taberna to buy some local goat and cow milk cheese, prosciutto, chorizo and pao for lunch and to taste local green wine and red wine.

São Gonçalo

Our next destination was Quinta de Santa Eufemia (https://www.qtastaeufemia.com/i-about.html), a small winery nestled in the heart of the Douro Valley, still managed by the original family. We tried several of their wines including the white wine, Towny red wine, 10-year Port, and the LBV port. The tour and the tasting left us in high spirits, and we were ready for a relaxing picnic lunch prepared by our guide at a scenic lookout point.

After the picnic lunch, we drove over to Pinhao, a small town nestled in the Duoro valley, that offered a train station, a hotel, a couple of restaurants, and wine stores. From Pinhao, we embarked on an hour-long local boat trip to savor the beauty of stepped terraces in the Douro Valley (https://www.fortheloveofport.com/historic-terraces-in-the-douro/).

Heading back to Porto, the intoxicating day left us exhausted and ready for a peaceful night’s rest.

Day 3: Beaches of Porto

Our last day in Porto was a half-day, as our train back to Lisbon was in the afternoon. To make the most of our time, we asked our local guide to take us to the various beaches of Porto and Gaia. This relaxing beach excursion served as a serene conclusion to our unforgettable journey through this beautiful Portuguese city.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/capela-do-senhora-da-pedra

3 days in Lisbon, Portugal - Tinned fish, cod croquettes and Ginjinha

The main historical neighborhoods inn Portugal include Chiado, Bairro Alto, Alfama and Belem. In general, most areas within the central/historical Lisbon are walkable but easier to go uphill in a vehicle and come down on your own two feet. We uber’ed when going uphill (or longer distances such as Belem).

Chiado is a very central neighborhood, upscale, happening, close to good restaurants and lively. We rented an apartment here and made this neighborhood our base. Every couple of blocks there was a square. In the evenings these squares came alive with families, kids, music and food. These squares are where we spent majority of our spare time, just being a part of the city, a part of the tourist crowd people watching. 

Assuming that you reach Lisbon in the morning and spend the morning portion of your day settling in. Spend the remainder of your afternoon exploring Chiado and Baixa-Chiado. Walk from Rossio train station to Baixa-Chiado metro stop stopping by way of Largo Camoes square. From there to the Elevator S Justa. We chose not to go up the elevators.. for one there was a long line and another we plan to see the city from the castle. Btw.. did you notice the two pelicans? 

From the Elevator walk on to Praca de Comercio, walk along the touristy Rua do Ouro or one of the parallel streets. All the way to the arch and to the beach. Trace your way back along the tram 28 tracks. Marvel at the tiled buildings, the gorgeous pink flower trees, the music and the tinned Sardine stores. 

For dining, this city has food options galore for all types of tourists. You can find a cafe every step of the way. Casual restaurants, fast food and fancy restaurants that require reservations. For our first night, we went out to a nice restaurant for dinner at Frade de Mares  https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d2308921-Reviews-Frade_dos_Mares-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html.  

Grilled Octopus 

Prawns in garlic tomato sauce and grilled octopus were particularly good. Reservations are required here, preferably a couple of days in advance. On the way back after dinner, we found a DJ playing some awesome dance music including bollywood music with a bunch of young adults dancing and other kids skateboarding. In that square were a bunch of beer and food stalls.

Torre de Belém

The next 1/2 day we spent visiting Belem. Start early.. like try to reach the monastery when it opens by 9-9:30 am. We took the Uber from Chiado to Belem.  You can also take the metro. Buy a 24 hour Lisboa card mostly to just cut through the long lines. First visit the Monastry (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos) , then the adjoining church and then the Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem) in that order. Go up the tower for a nice view of the river meeting the sea. If line is too long.. skip the tower. After the three monuments, break for Lunch at Pasteis de Belem https://pasteisdebelem.pt/. They serve sandwiches and all, but the Pasteis de Nata are the most famous here. We must have eated 3-4 nice warm pasteis each and brought some home for later as well.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Pasteis De Belem

After lunch, we came back to the apartment in Chiado for a short nap and rest. 

Lisbon Cathedral

For the second half of the day, we walked to the Cathedral. From the Cathedral there are a few choices- walk uphill, or take the scenic tram 28 going in the uphill direction (if you have a full day pass, you can use the tram to hop on hop off.. we did not buy the day passes, choosing to either walk or Uber in the interest of time and to avoid the crowds)  or take a tuk-tuk (1hr tour for 2 ppl for 70 Euro and the driver comes disguised a guide). We did the Tuk Tuk tour, stopping at 4-5 stops along the way. After the tuk-tuk tour, we leisurely walked back to Chiado area. 

This day we dined at O Portugues (https://o-portugues-chiado.negocio.site/), Chiado, Rua dos Duques de Braganca, 5G Chiado, Lisboa. The restaurant was upscale and some of the best food we had in Lisbon with live music. We asked the singer to sing some Fado music.. not his speciality but he obliged and sang a happy fado and a sad fado. Both awesome renditions. Every dish that we tried was really well  prepared, the Vegan dumplings, grilled octopus, cod coquettes, and so much more. This restaurant requires reservations so plan in advance. After dinner, I am sure you will need a long walk back to the apartment hopefully along a way that takes you past a lively square, perhaps the one near the Baixa-Chiado metro.

The next 1/2 day for us was a trip to the Castle. Entry into the castle grounds requires a 

 ticket which is not included in the Lisboa card. You can take the tram or Uber. We went the Uber route. We spent about 2 hours just strolling in the castle. Nice views of the city from every angle. Other than great views there is not much to see. They do have a small museum in the castly. From the castly, we walked back.. an easy downhill walk, strolling through the Alfama neighborhood.  We stopped to grab lunch in Grasa. Grasa neighborhood overlooked Alfama, a great view but food here was nothing special. For dinner, we dined at a restaurant in Alfama. 

Graca

There were 2-3 restaurants in Alfama, in a square opposite the Fado museum. A Couple of ladies selling Ginjinha in a chocolate cup.. a local cherry wine. Worth a tasting. Dined at one of the places near the square as we listened to live Fado music. The singers generally come around 8 pm and the restaurants open for dinner around 7:30 ish.

If you have time, walk from where ever you are (Praca de Comercio/Chaido) to Timeoff market. Breakfast/lunch at Timeoff market. On Tuesdays - Sundays, there is a fresh fruit and vegetable market right in that building. 

Rest of the time we spent exploring the historical neighborhoods. It is easier to explore when you break up the day into 1/2 days.. in between the transitions, we either came back to the apartment to rest and freshen up or at a square just absorbing the vibe.

Pink Street

Cod fish croquettes 

Fight or Flight - Lessons from the Bush, Kruger National Park, South Africa (Part 2)

The term Safari originated from the Arabic adjective safar, which means 'a journey', travelling, touring, or voyaging. It was adapted into Swahili word safari meaning 'to travel'. Today, Safari has become synonymous with a trip to Africa to see the wildlife. Most renowned are the grasslands of Serengeti, the Masai Mara Reserve, the woodlands of Kruger, the Hwange in Zimbabwe or any one of the wildlife parks in Africa.

People say rainy season is the best time for a safari vacation. Perhaps that’s true since the woodlands and the savannah would be lush green. But I am glad our trip was in the dry season. We saw up close and personal every single wildlife in the Big 5, the Magnificent 7, the Ugly 5 and everything in between, much of it around the water holes, some of it in the woodlands but none hidden by the lush greens of the bush.

Everyday single day, we spotted every member of the Big 5, and much action within this wildlife. A few vividly seared in memory.

The very first view as we entered the gates of the reserve, we saw a big herd of elephants cooling off by a pond. The herd must have included 20-25 elephants from large males to what might have been a few weeks old baby elephants. It appeared as if a large community of elephants was socializing and picnicking. As we drove on to our camp, we spotted many large herds of Nyala and Kudu all over the reserve. These large antelope type animals are very common to the Kruger area.

Everyday we saw pride of lions sunbathing often with young ones. Once we sighted a Cheetah resting presumably after eating its meal (we saw an animal carcass not too far away). Another time we saw a mama leopard with two cubs walking about and another time a young leopard resting in the grass. The most memorable sighting was of two leopards mating. They say opposable thumb, bipedal gait and the ability to talk is what differentiates humans from other animals. I say, it's the ability to kiss and be intimate is what sets us apart. Seeing two leopards mate in the open grasslands, there was no shame and no hiding, it was us humans that seemed embarrassed like teenage kids at the sight. I guess life in the wild is so precocious, one day you are hunting for meat and the next day you are the meat, that mating is a cause for celebration. It’s what creates the circle of life!

We saw herds of Wildbeast, Water Buffalo, Zebras, Giraffe. Several vulture sightings sitting on bare tree tops. Elephants were plentiful in herds small and large. Leaving their trail identifiable by large droppings and many a Marula tree whose bark was stripped and chewed. There was a time we saw a mama elephant with two younger elephants, truly those two younger ones were behaving like teenagers. One of the two teenage elephants bullying and pushing the other into water. The other resisting and pushing back. I thought of my own kids when one would push the other and the other would shout “mom, he’s hurting me”. I guess dealing with brats is no different in the elephant kingdom.

While wild dogs are an endangered species, we saw them a couple of times. One of the most vivid memory is of two wild dogs who had chased a Kudu to a small island in a pond. The wild dogs tried swimming to the island, but retreated after only a few steps in the water. The two dogs circled and paced back and forth waiting for the Kudu to come ashore. The Kudu stood on this tiny island shaking with fear. Even from a distance, the shaking was very perceptible. The dogs waited for their kill for a long time. Us humans sitting at a distance watched this dance between the hunter and its prey like spectators. Finally, with the sun almost set, the dogs left their prey on the island. Wonder how long the Kudu stayed on the island, and whether it survived the night. The following day, when we drove past the spot, neither the Kudu nor the dogs were to be seen. How and if the young Kudu ever made it from the island is anyone’s guess. But, I guess the fear of death is universal. In the face of danger, life can do feats that are indefeasible. Regardless of whether you “fight or flight”, the death comes to all, it's just a matter of how each of us face the death in the end that matters.

In the pond, rested the Hippos and crocodiles. Hippos visible mostly by their snout and hump. Once we caught a hippo at dawn walking into the water, as a couple of others lay basking on the muddy shore. We saw a young Giraffe spread its front legs wide as it bent to drink water. Just the act of preparing to drink water took hours. Walk then wait, walk some more then wait some more (making sure no danger lurked in or around the water source), the slow task of spreading the legs without toppling over and then bending the neck to drink water. No wonder Giraffe’s drink water once every few days. The danger to life is so great, that evolution has prepared their bodies to retain water for extended periods of time. Wonder if Darwin spent time in Africa before he wrote the theory of evolution. Survival of the fittest indeed.

Rhinoceros, a solitary animal. As huge as its body is, a Rhino travels vast areas every day. It marks its territory by its pee. When he pees, it seems as if a sprinkler has turned on.. imagine an animal walking and peeing at the same time, the pee spreading in a circle of approx 3-4 foot diameter. While our Land cruiser had stopped several yards away, apparently we were perceived within the Rhino’s personal space. A bull charged us. The tracker (spotter) shit scared reached for his knobkerry. The driver furiously backed the vehicle out of the danger zone. The bull stopped a few inches short of the spotter. Us passengers sighed in relief. Had the bull not stopped, the spotter would have been dead. He would have used the knobkerry to either make noise by banging on the hood of the cruiser or hit the Rhino on the head like a club. I doubt either would have made a difference, but probably would have given the driver a bit more time to back out of the danger zone and us into safety.

September 2, 2019, dawned the last day of our Safari trip, a day celebrated worldwide by Hindus as Ganesh Chaturthi. The moment we drove out of our camp, we ran into a large male elephant. Being old and large and slow, he lived a solitary life without the protection of a herd and stayed close to the camp. I had seen him and heard him often from our tent. This day, he was standing just a few feet from the dirt road. I saw he had one large, unbroken and yellowed tusk, the other tusk broken close to his mouth. I named him Ekdant (the one with a single tusk). As we paused close to him, he looked upon us, and bid us goodby with the following thought: “You must, for the good of the whole, live in herds but there comes a time in life when you must walk your own solitary path.”