Friday, September 27, 2024

Medinas & Souks: An Adventure Through Morocco"

Day 1: Arrival in Casablanca (September 27)


This year our annual girls trip was to to the city of Sunsets and Souks, Morocco. While our Moroccan journey began in the city of Casablanca, we were simply transiting through that city upon arrival. Most first timers either begin their itinerary in Casablanca or in Marrakesh. No matter where the trip starts,  the trip circuit is the same. It either goes clockwise or anti-clockwise. After a long flight, the first of our girls friends arrived late at night, greeted by the warm embrace of the city. She settled into Hotel Kenzi Basma, about 20 min from the airport, ready to embark on the adventure ahead.


Day 2: Transition to Marrakech (September 28)


The next day started with a bunch more of us arriving from different parts of the world, gathering of friends, at Casablanca Airport. We had pre-arranged our pickup with our tour guide with a van. Together, we set off for Marrakech, the vibrant “Red City.”  After settling into Riad La Croix Berbere Deluxe, located in Marrakesh medina (historical city center), the evening was ours to explore and unwind. 


A Moroccan riad is unique for its central courtyard, intricate tilework, serene ambiance, rooftop terraces, and personalized hospitality, offering an authentic cultural experience. While most Riads are located in the medinas of Moroccan cities like Marrakech or Fes, some riads can also be found in quieter outskirts or rural areas, offering a peaceful retreat with the same traditional charm. 


That evening, we toyed with the idea of visiting the serene Majorelle Gardens but left it for another day. The remainder of this day was spent hanging out in the market square (which was only a short walk away) and catching up with friends.


Day 3: Exploring Marrakech (September 29)


After a sumptuous Moroccan breakfast, a guided tour of Marrakech was the highlight of the day. The lush Yves Saint Laurent Gardens greeted us first, a serene oasis amidst the city’s energy. We admired the towering Koutoubia Mosque from the outside and meandered through the lively souks and the historic Jewish Quarter. At the Bahia Palace, history whispered through intricately adorned walls. 


The Marrakech medina is a bustling UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its vibrant souks, narrow winding alleys, historic palaces, mosques, and bustling Jemaa el-Fnaa square, all steeped in rich Moroccan culture and history.


As the day waned, the Riad welcomed us back for a relaxing evening and a rooftop dinner of traditional Moroccan fare.


One special activity was a hammam, a hot water and steam-filled traditional spa experience focused on cleansing, exfoliating the skin with black soap, scrubbing with a kessa glove, and applying ghassoul clay. Treatment delivered by other women (or men), Hammams are an integral part of Moroccan culture.


We stopped at a cooperative to buy some Argon oil. While the oil seemed very pure, it was rather expensive as we found out later. 


Day 4: The Road to Dades Valley (September 30)


Departing Marrakech, we ventured into the breathtaking High Atlas Mountains. The winding Tizi N’Tichka Pass offered incredible panoramas. A stop at Ait Ben Haddou transported us to a bygone era of earthen kasbahs and movie sets. This UNESCO World Heritage Site and an ancient fortified village, located near Ouarzazate, showcases traditional Berber construction and has served as the backdrop for iconic films like Gladiator, James Bond and Game of Thrones. Its dramatic landscape and preserved cultural heritage make it a must-visit destination. 


We had traditional lunch which included dishes like tagines (slow-cooked stews with meat, vegetables, and spices), couscous (steamed semolina served with vegetables and meat), harira (hearty soup with lentils and chickpeas), refreshing raw salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, and parsley and mint tea, a staple drink. The food characterized by aromatic spices like cumin, saffron, and cinnamon, and a blend of sweet and savory flavors the lunch was only overshadowed by the ancient city.


Continuing through Skoura and Kelaa Mgouna, we reached the enchanting Dades Valley, where rock formations and lush gardens framed our stay at Kasbah Didis.


Day 5: Into the Merzouga Desert (October 1)


We journeyed deeper into Morocco, visiting the awe-inspiring Todgha Gorges before reaching the golden dunes of Erg Chebbi. Camel trekking led us into the heart of the Sahara, where a luxury camp awaited. The evening brought a fiery sunset, dinner, music and dancing around a fire pit— and stargazing under the expansive desert sky. 


En route, we stopped at a local shop to buy a desert turban (veil),  a long piece of fabric, made of cotton, wrapped around the head and face to protect against harsh sun, wind, and sand in the desert. It is especially popular among the Berber people of North Africa. Be aware of local hawkers charging an arm and a log for their veils, unlikely you will ever use it again, but it makes a good Insta-worthy picture. 


Day 6: From the Desert to Fes (October 2)


The day began with a magical desert sunrise. From Merzouga, we traversed the Ziz Valley, capturing snapshots of palm groves and pausing for lunch in Midelt. En route to Fes, we drove by the Cedar Forest, where playful monkeys swung from the trees. By evening, the historical city of Fes welcomed us warmly at Riad au 20 Jasmins.


While tagine was delightful for the first few days, by day four, having it for both lunch and dinner started to feel a bit repetitive. Its mild flavors, though comforting, left us craving something spicier. Luckily, we had packed an Indian spice mix, which quickly became our secret weapon. We sprinkled it liberally on salads, yogurt, and even tagine, instantly transforming the dishes. To our surprise, the kebabs at roadside eateries turned out to be exceptionally flavorful, offering a welcome change. In Fez and other touristy areas, we also began exploring Chinese, Thai, and Indian cuisines, adding some much-needed variety to our meals.



Day 7: Discovering Fes (October 3)


With the guidance of a knowledgeable local expert, we delved into the spiritual and cultural heart of Morocco—Fez. The grandeur of the Royal Palace gates, coupled with the intricate artisan workshops of Fes el Bali, revealed stories etched into every corner of the ancient city. Wandering through the vibrant souks and narrow alleys felt like stepping into a living museum. The iconic tanneries, with their vibrant dye pits, offered a glimpse into traditional leather-making techniques. Yet, the tannery experience was bittersweet; the pungent, lingering odor surrounding the tanneries made it a sensory challenge. It was a visit that leaves a lasting impression—and since then, I've found myself steering clear of real leather. 


While in Fez, we stumbled into a local music festival, I believe its called the Fez Festival of Sufi Culture, an event where many local Sufi groups perform music and dance as they move in a  procession through the medina. The procession with filled with small local bands singing and dancing, people lining both sides of the narrow medina streets and creating a lively atmosphere in the historic city center. It's was a great experience in traditional Moroccan music up close and personal. 


As the day drew to a close, the peaceful ambiance of the Riad offered a perfect retreat, balancing the intensity of the city with serene comfort.


Day 8: Journey to Chefchaouen (October 4)


The drive to Chefchaouen, the “Blue Pearl,” was a visual treat, with the Rif Mountains painting the landscape. Wandering through its picturesque blue streets, we found ourselves enchanted by the Utta Hammam Square and Ras El Ma springs. At Dar Mounir, we rested amidst the charm of this unique town.


This was by far the prettiest town/city and also the smallest. Walking from one end to another was easy. Walking late night was safe. If you plan to buy Argon oil, we found that it was pure and cheaper than all other towns here. The bottles come in varying sizes.


Right in the city, is a popular hike to view the sunset, leading to a small Spanish Mosque. Built in the 1920s, this mosque sits atop a hill just east of the medina. The easy and leisurely trail is only approx 1.5 kilometers (about 1 mile) round trip taking 20 to 30 minutes each way. Upon reaching the summit, you are rewarded with panoramic views of the Blue City and the surrounding Rif Mountains, making it an ideal spot to witness the sunset.

 


Day 9: Chefchaouen to Casablanca (October 5)


Bidding farewell to Chefchaouen, we returned to Casablanca. A visit to the iconic Hassan II Mosque capped off our Moroccan adventure. At night we took a quick trip to the waterfront and then settled into Hotel Kenzi Basma for the final night.


Day 10: Departures and Farewells (October 6)


The trip concluded with a city tour of Casablanca before heading to the airport. Goodbyes marked the end of a journey filled with incredible memories, laughter, and an appreciation for Morocco’s hospitality, beauty and culture.


Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Chefchouan


Alleys of Medina


Spice shops in the medina

Tannery in Fez

Narrow alleys of a medina

Royal Palace, Fez

Sahara, Merzouga Desert

Zik Zak road, Dades Valley


Riad


Thursday, August 22, 2024

Hidden Gems, Colorado

Colorado is undoubtedly one of the most traveled and tourist-friendly states year-round, with nearly every corner known for its appeal to visitors. While some towns and areas have become well-known tourist destinations, there are still a few hidden gems that remain less traveled. Here, I highlight a couple of these lesser-known spots that deserve to be explored.

Maroon Bells Hike, Aspen Highlands, Colorado

The Maroon Bells are a series of bell-shaped peaks approximately 14,000 ft. high in the White River National Forest towering above the pristine glacial Maroon Creek valley. I learnt only recently that the peaks are on every Colorado post card, and are the most photographed mountains in Colorado. Located 10 miles west of Aspen and 16 miles from Snowmassthe Maroon Bells valley includes several hiking trails, camping sites, and biking paths. 

Because this area is so popular for hiking, the access is now limited during the summer and fall. In order to hike, reservations are now required to access either by private vehicle or by RFTA shuttle. If you are staying in Aspen, you can take the hotel shuttle to Aspen Highlands downtown. From there take the RFTA shuttle to the trailhead.  To make your reservation, click here

There are several hikes in the area, some easy and others moderate. We did the Crater Lake Traila 3.6-mile round-trip trail that took us approx 2:30 hrs. While its considered a moderate hike, its steep and rocky ascent as well as cooler temperatures adds a bit of a challenge.  The rewards are breathtaking vistas of Aspen woodlands and a beautiful Crater Lake. 


Montrose, Colorado

After Aspen, we decided to spend a couple of days in south western Colorado hiking and visiting towns less travelled by tourists. We chose to stay in Montrose, Colorado at Rathbone Hotel. Little did we know Montrose is/was a Republican county, until we were driving and saw Trump 2024 flags. Well, Republican or not, as Kamala Harris supporters, we watched the DNC event from our room.  Rathbone, is a brand new, non-chain, and very comfortable hotel located right in the historical downtown of Montrose. The lower level is a restaurant and bar, and the upper level includes generously sized hotel rooms. We ate breakfast at Forage, another brand new restaurant with a very charming and gracious proprietor. Republican or not, Montrose definitely seems to be benefitting from the Democrat sponsored Infrastructure Law. Almost everywhere you see buildings bring renovated, highways being repaved, and areas under development.


Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Nestled in western Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers an inspiring day trip filled with breathtaking views, rugged landscapes, and a sense of solitude that’s hard to find in more frequented parks. Approximately a 3 hours driving distance from Aspen, lies this hidden gem filled with nature's raw beauty.

Arrival and First Impressions

I arrived at the park early in the morning. The drive to the park itself is a scenic journey through the high desert landscape, gradually giving way to the dramatic, steep walls of the canyon. 

Oak Flat Loop: A Perfect Introduction

My first stop was the visitor center at the South Rim to pick up a trail map and connect with the rangers. I began my exploration with the Oak Flat Loop, a moderate 2-mile trail that offers some of the most intimate views of the canyon. The trail winds through juniper and pinyon pine forests, gradually descending towards the canyon’s rim. Along the way, I encountered several overlooks, each providing an amazing view of the sheer cliffs and the Gunnison River far below.

The Oak Flat Loop is a great introduction to the park’s landscape, as it allows you to see the canyon from various angles without committing to a more strenuous downward hike. The trail is well-marked and offers plenty of opportunities to pause and take in the dramatic scenery. One moment you’re walking through a peaceful forest, and the next, you’re standing at the edge of a cliff, gazing down into the dizzying depths of the canyon.

The Overlooks

After completing the Oak Flat Loop, I spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the various overlooks along the South Rim. Each overlook provides a different perspective of the canyon, showcasing its unique geology and the interplay of light and shadow on its dark, towering walls. While I stopped at each overlook, my favorite were:

  • Pulpit Rock View:

  • Chasm View: This overlook offers a striking view of the canyon’s narrowest point, where the walls are only 40 feet apart at the top but drop nearly 2,000 feet straight down. The sense of depth here is truly humbling.

  • Painted Wall: The Painted Wall is the tallest cliff in Colorado, and the overlook provides a perfect vantage point to admire its intricate patterns of light-colored pegmatite streaking across the dark rock. I chose this location for a light picnic lunch. 

  • Cedar Point: This overlook gives a fantastic view of the Gunnison River winding its way through the canyon far below. The sound of the river, though faint, adds to the experience of standing at the edge of this immense chasm.

  • East Portal: Located near the park entrance is the road to East Portal. This road takes you close to the river without the hike. The road is steep and curving on a steep grade but beautiful. 

If you’re looking for a day trip that combines stunning scenery with a sense of solitude and discovery, Black Canyon is the place to go. Just remember to bring your camera, and water, because the views are unforgettable.






Thursday, March 14, 2024

4 Days in Barcelona, Spain

 Day 1: Raindrops and Ramblas

Our adventure in Barcelona began with a soggy Saturday morning arrival. Rainy day and the redeye flight: a match made in discomfort heaven. But for the promise of being in Spain for the first time and the Spanish sun on the horizon was enough not to damper our excitement.


Plaça Catalunya

Morning: Bleary-eyed and caffeine deprived, we stumbled into a cozy café next door to our Marriott apartment on La Rambla. Nothing like a strong cup of Americano to kickstart the day. Our early check-in was a breeze, the property management company very accommodating. While our digs were compact (as most apartments in Europe are), they were conveniently located – a stone's throw away from many of the tourist hotspots.


Afternoon: With raindrops tap-dancing on the pavement, we opted for a catnap to recharge our batteries. Once the clouds parted, we ventured to Passeig de Gracia for some window shopping. Who needs cheap souvenirs when you can drool over the designer handbags? Passeig de Gràcia is the famous boulevard in Barcelona, that starts from the lively Plaça Catalunya, the historic city centre to the neighbourhood of Gràcia. Most of the luxury store brands, restaurants and Bars, the Gaudi house and many tourist hotspots are located along this main boulevard or  close to this boulevard. Highly recommend staying in one of the hotels/apartments close to Passieg de Gracia or La Rambla.

Casa Villa La Pedrera

Evening: Dinner at Bar Mut in the Gracia neighborhood was a seafood tapas extravaganza. We tried red vermouth (Yzaguirre) for an aperitif and what a charming surprise. For the remainder of our trip, red vermouth was our drink of choice with varying sweetness and redness. We dined on tapas that included octopus, oysters, Paella, peppers and more. On the way to the restaurant, we couldn't help but marvel at the Gaudí-esque architecture peppered throughout the neighborhood, including the striking Casa Villa La Pedrera. After dinner, we walked back and called it an early night






Day 2: Sunny Side Up

Sunday dawned bright and beautiful, a welcome change from the previous day's drizzle.

Casa Battlo
Morning: After a simple coffee and croissant breakfast, we embarked on a tour of Casa Battlo, Gaudí's architectural marvel on Rbla Catalunya. Equipped with handheld devices, we delved into the whimsical world of Gaudí. The house's undulating façade and dreamlike interiors left us feeling like characters in his fairy tale. Strongly recommend getting tickets in advance during peak season. Access to "Special areas" is not worth it.


Afternoon: A leisurely stroll down Rbla Catalunya led us to Port Vell, where we soaked up the sun and people-watched by the pier. The juxtaposition of old and new, with modern yachts bobbing beside ancient buildings, was a sight to behold. When evening rolled around, we joined the football rowdy crowd at Flaherty's Irish pub in Gothic Quarter to catch an Arsenal game.


Evening: Our wanderlust led us through the labyrinthine streets of the Gothic Quarter, past the majestic Barcelona Cathedral. We indulged in hot churros with chocolate and savored tapas and paella. The narrow alleys of the Gothic Quarter, and balcony's decorated with flowers whispered tales of centuries past, while the bustling plazas echoed with the laughter of locals and tourists alike.





La Rambla
A Gothic Quarter alley

Port Vell




Day 3: Gaudí Galore

Monday was all about embracing Barcelona's Gaudí-infused charm.

Morning: After yet another breakfast of freshly baked croissants and cappuccino, we hailed a taxi to Park Güell. Despite the crowds, Gaudí's whimsical park was a charm. From the colorful mosaic benches to the lizard sculpture, every corner seemed to hold a very Gaudi (no pun intended) surprise. 

Mercy de Santa Caterina


Afternoon: On way back from the park, we took a taxi ride to the ongoing masterpiece that is Sagrada Familia. We marveled at the still under construction church going on for 200 some years. What captivated me most was the abundance of natural light filtering in from the stained glass windows, highlighting the stone forest Gaudi designed. Outside the richness of the sculptures and the facade really captures your attention and to be honest overwhelm the senses. From Sagrada Familia, we then meandered through Arc de Triomf and Parc de Ciutadella. The fruit topped towering spires of Sagrada Familia reached towards the sky, a testament to human creativity. As we wandered through Parc de Ciutadella, we were enchanted by its serene beauty, from the lush greenery to the shimmering lake.


Barcelona Cathedral
Evening: En route to the Cathedral, we stumbled upon architectural wonders like Mercy de Santa Caterina and Mercy de Sant Antoni. A quick stop for some wine (red vermouth) and snacks recharged our weary legs, allowing us to appreciate the cathedral's intricate glasswork. The Gothic Quarter glowed in the evening light, its ancient streets bathed in a golden hue, discovering the many marble fountains and metal ones too reminding that these common areas and water fountains were where the people congregated socially for centuries and people that live there still do. We couldn't help but feel a sense of wonder at the richness that surrounded us.


Gothic Quarter alley

Parc Guell

Sagrada Familia




Day 4: Market Marvels

Tuesday dawned with a visit to Mercado de la Boqueria (not too far from Placa Catalunya), where we feasted on Oysters, fresh fruits, empanadas, and of course, jamón ibérico with aged manchengo cheese.


Mercado de la Boqueria
Morning: We explored the vibrant Eixample neighborhood, soaking in the authentic local vibe. From charming cafes to bustling markets, every corner seemed to hold a new discovery. The lively atmosphere was infectious, and we found ourselves drawn deeper into the heart of the neighborhood near University of Barceloa and walking along the Rbla Rambla.


Evening: Before leaving Barsa, a sandwich from Bo de B (In Gothic quarter not too far from the Cathedral is a must have. The lines are long, mostly exchange students. Grab a sandwich (ask for all toppings and all sauces) and potato fries. Sit by the steps of the cathedral and enjoy this meal to make a lifelong memory. As our Barcelona escapade drew to a close, we reflect on how much more there is to do in Barcelona, a football game, the stadium, the olympic park..next time perhaps.



Mercado de la Boqueria



Day 5: Adieu 

Today we bid adieu to the bustling streets of Barca.  We boarded the fast train to Madrid, carrying memories of Gaudí, red vermouth, tapas, and the warm Spanish sun. Adiós, Barca – until we meet again!