4 Days in Barcelona, Spain

 Day 1: Raindrops and Ramblas

Our adventure in Barcelona began with a soggy Saturday morning arrival. Rainy day and the redeye flight: a match made in discomfort heaven. But for the promise of being in Spain for the first time and the Spanish sun on the horizon was enough not to damper our excitement.

Plaça Catalunya

Morning: Bleary-eyed and caffeine deprived, we stumbled into a cozy café next door to our Marriott apartment on La Rambla. Nothing like a strong cup of Americano to kickstart the day. Our early check-in was a breeze, the property management company very accommodating. While our digs were compact (as most apartments in Europe are), they were conveniently located – a stone's throw away from many of the tourist hotspots.

Afternoon: With raindrops tap-dancing on the pavement, we opted for a catnap to recharge our batteries. Once the clouds parted, we ventured to Passeig de Gracia for some window shopping. Who needs cheap souvenirs when you can drool over the designer handbags? Passeig de Gràcia is the famous boulevard in Barcelona, that starts from the lively Plaça Catalunya, the historic city centre to the neighbourhood of Gràcia. Most of the luxury store brands, restaurants and Bars, the Gaudi house and many tourist hotspots are located along this main boulevard or  close to this boulevard. Highly recommend staying in one of the hotels/apartments close to Passieg de Gracia or La Rambla.

Casa Villa La Pedrera

Evening: Dinner at Bar Mut in the Gracia neighborhood was a seafood tapas extravaganza. We tried red vermouth (Yzaguirre) for an aperitif and what a charming surprise. For the remainder of our trip, red vermouth was our drink of choice with varying sweetness and redness. We dined on tapas that included octopus, oysters, Paella, peppers and more. On the way to the restaurant, we couldn't help but marvel at the Gaudí-esque architecture peppered throughout the neighborhood, including the striking Casa Villa La Pedrera. After dinner, we walked back and called it an early night

Day 2: Sunny Side Up

Sunday dawned bright and beautiful, a welcome change from the previous day's drizzle.

Casa Battlo

Morning: After a simple coffee and croissant breakfast, we embarked on a tour of Casa Battlo, Gaudí's architectural marvel on Rbla Catalunya. Equipped with handheld devices, we delved into the whimsical world of Gaudí. The house's undulating façade and dreamlike interiors left us feeling like characters in his fairy tale. Strongly recommend getting tickets in advance during peak season. Access to "Special areas" is not worth it.

Afternoon: A leisurely stroll down Rbla Catalunya led us to Port Vell, where we soaked up the sun and people-watched by the pier. The juxtaposition of old and new, with modern yachts bobbing beside ancient buildings, was a sight to behold. When evening rolled around, we joined the football rowdy crowd at Flaherty's Irish pub in Gothic Quarter to catch an Arsenal game.

Evening: Our wanderlust led us through the labyrinthine streets of the Gothic Quarter, past the majestic Barcelona Cathedral. We indulged in hot churros with chocolate and savored tapas and paella. The narrow alleys of the Gothic Quarter, and balcony's decorated with flowers whispered tales of centuries past, while the bustling plazas echoed with the laughter of locals and tourists alike.

La Rambla

A Gothic Quarter alley

Port Vell

Day 3: Gaudí Galore

Monday was all about embracing Barcelona's Gaudí-infused charm.

Morning: After yet another breakfast of freshly baked croissants and cappuccino, we hailed a taxi to Park Güell. Despite the crowds, Gaudí's whimsical park was a charm. From the colorful mosaic benches to the lizard sculpture, every corner seemed to hold a very Gaudi (no pun intended) surprise. 

Mercy de Santa Caterina

Afternoon: On way back from the park, we took a taxi ride to the ongoing masterpiece that is Sagrada Familia. We marveled at the still under construction church going on for 200 some years. What captivated me most was the abundance of natural light filtering in from the stained glass windows, highlighting the stone forest Gaudi designed. Outside the richness of the sculptures and the facade really captures your attention and to be honest overwhelm the senses. From Sagrada Familia, we then meandered through Arc de Triomf and Parc de Ciutadella. The fruit topped towering spires of Sagrada Familia reached towards the sky, a testament to human creativity. As we wandered through Parc de Ciutadella, we were enchanted by its serene beauty, from the lush greenery to the shimmering lake.

Barcelona Cathedral

Evening: En route to the Cathedral, we stumbled upon architectural wonders like Mercy de Santa Caterina and Mercy de Sant Antoni. A quick stop for some wine (red vermouth) and snacks recharged our weary legs, allowing us to appreciate the cathedral's intricate glasswork. The Gothic Quarter glowed in the evening light, its ancient streets bathed in a golden hue, discovering the many marble fountains and metal ones too reminding that these common areas and water fountains were where the people congregated socially for centuries and people that live there still do. We couldn't help but feel a sense of wonder at the richness that surrounded us.

Gothic Quarter alley

Parc Guell

Sagrada Familia

Day 4: Market Marvels

Tuesday dawned with a visit to Mercado de la Boqueria (not too far from Placa Catalunya), where we feasted on Oysters, fresh fruits, empanadas, and of course, jamón ibérico with aged manchengo cheese.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Morning: We explored the vibrant Eixample neighborhood, soaking in the authentic local vibe. From charming cafes to bustling markets, every corner seemed to hold a new discovery. The lively atmosphere was infectious, and we found ourselves drawn deeper into the heart of the neighborhood near University of Barceloa and walking along the Rbla Rambla.

Evening: Before leaving Barsa, a sandwich from Bo de B (In Gothic quarter not too far from the Cathedral is a must have. The lines are long, mostly exchange students. Grab a sandwich (ask for all toppings and all sauces) and potato fries. Sit by the steps of the cathedral and enjoy this meal to make a lifelong memory. As our Barcelona escapade drew to a close, we reflect on how much more there is to do in Barcelona, a football game, the stadium, the olympic park..next time perhaps.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Day 5: Adieu 

Today we bid adieu to the bustling streets of Barca.  We boarded the fast train to Madrid, carrying memories of Gaudí, red vermouth, tapas, and the warm Spanish sun. Adiós, Barca – until we meet again!

Two days in Porto and Duoro Valley, Portugal

 Arrival in Porto 

Arriving in Porto sets the stage for an enchanting evening in this Portuguese gem. After settling into your hotel or apartment, take a moment to freshen up and unwind. But don't linger too long, for the city has a delightful evening to offer. Start by strolling to the near by Monastery of Serra do Pilar, where you'll be rewarded with a magnificent view of Porto, particularly as the sun sets, painting the sky with warm hues. It's a breathtaking sight.

As the evening deepens, continue your adventure on the Gaia side of the Ribeira. Wander the narrow cobbled streets in the Wow cultural district. Walk towards the river and you'll find a plethora of charming cafes by the riverside offering many dining choices. Opt for a table facing the Porto side, to a stunning sunset spectacle. The lit bridge, the monastic silhouette, and the illuminated buildings on the Porto waterfront create a picturesque panorama that's just amazing.

Serra do Pilar

Day 1

Rise early next morning to embark on a day of exploration in Porto, Portugal. There is much to see, and your first stop should be Sao Bento, a place that's often hailed as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world – and rightly so. As you step into the station, you'll be greeted by a breathtaking sight. The walls are adorned with intricate blue and white azulejo tiles that tell the stories of Portugal's rich history. These meticulously hand-painted tiles transform the station into a living work of art, capturing the essence of the country's culture and heritage. Sao Bento is not just a transportation hub; it's a historical and architectural gem that will leave you in awe of the craftsmanship that went into its creation. So, rise early, and let Sao Bento be your first glimpse into the captivating beauty of Porto.

Once you've marveled at the artistic beauty of Sao Bento, stroll over to the Cathedral. As you ascend to the top, be sure to pause and wonder at the hand-painted tiled wall. Each tile tells a unique story, and the intricate details are bound to leave you in awe. It's a moment of quiet appreciation.

Sao Bento

 Porto Cathedral

If you did not go to the Monastery the evening before, now is another opportunity. Walk across the Ponte Luiz bridge and climb up the monastery for a great view. 

Return to Sao Bento but continue towards the city hall. Along the way stop to admire what might possibly be the most beautiful McDonald Imperial. 

On the right hand side of the city hall is a shopping district. Go to Majestic Cafe, where JK Rowling wrote several chapters of the first Harry Potter book, the Sorcerer Stone. Grab lunch at the cafe and walk about the lively shopping district.

Majestic Cafe

Walk to the Igreja des Carmelitas  and then on to Tower (Torre de Clerigos). If its still early in the afternoon, this might be a good time for a short break and to rest.

Walk on to Mercado Ferreira and then on to the riverside towards the wine museum (Museum Vinho do Porto). Continue to explore the city by foot visiting the beaches of Porto where the Duoro river meets the Atlantic ocean. Walk back towards the Ribeira to enjoy rest of the evening with a glass of Sangria, music and people watching at one of the many cafes, this time on the Porto side of the river.

Day 2: Douro Valley Trip

There are many ways to visit the Douro Valley (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/douro-valley-portugal), such as taking a train to and from Porto to Pinhao, or a river boat from Porto to Pinhao and back via the train. Both routes offer scenic beauty but neither will take you to visit a Quinta (vineyard). An option is to join a tour bus. We chose to rent a car and were fortunate to have a knowledgeable local guide from Porto.

Our day began early at 8:30 am, and after an hour of driving, we made a pit stop at Amarante (https://portugaltravelguide.com/amarante-portugal/), a charming town on the banks of Tâmega. A former monastery of São Gonçalo dates back to 1540 and houses a lovely interior of painted columns and a dramatic high altar. Here, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, savoring Brioche croissants, Amarante pastries, and coffee. After breakfast, we walked over to Don Rodrigo Taberna to buy some local goat and cow milk cheese, prosciutto, chorizo and pao for lunch and to taste local green wine and red wine.

São Gonçalo

Our next destination was Quinta de Santa Eufemia (https://www.qtastaeufemia.com/i-about.html), a small winery nestled in the heart of the Douro Valley, still managed by the original family. We tried several of their wines including the white wine, Towny red wine, 10-year Port, and the LBV port. The tour and the tasting left us in high spirits, and we were ready for a relaxing picnic lunch prepared by our guide at a scenic lookout point.

After the picnic lunch, we drove over to Pinhao, a small town nestled in the Duoro valley, that offered a train station, a hotel, a couple of restaurants, and wine stores. From Pinhao, we embarked on an hour-long local boat trip to savor the beauty of stepped terraces in the Douro Valley (https://www.fortheloveofport.com/historic-terraces-in-the-douro/).

Heading back to Porto, the intoxicating day left us exhausted and ready for a peaceful night’s rest.

Day 3: Beaches of Porto

Our last day in Porto was a half-day, as our train back to Lisbon was in the afternoon. To make the most of our time, we asked our local guide to take us to the various beaches of Porto and Gaia. This relaxing beach excursion served as a serene conclusion to our unforgettable journey through this beautiful Portuguese city.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/capela-do-senhora-da-pedra

3 days in Lisbon, Portugal - Tinned fish, cod croquettes and Ginjinha

The main historical neighborhoods inn Portugal include Chiado, Bairro Alto, Alfama and Belem. In general, most areas within the central/historical Lisbon are walkable but easier to go uphill in a vehicle and come down on your own two feet. We uber’ed when going uphill (or longer distances such as Belem).

Chiado is a very central neighborhood, upscale, happening, close to good restaurants and lively. We rented an apartment here and made this neighborhood our base. Every couple of blocks there was a square. In the evenings these squares came alive with families, kids, music and food. These squares are where we spent majority of our spare time, just being a part of the city, a part of the tourist crowd people watching. 

Assuming that you reach Lisbon in the morning and spend the morning portion of your day settling in. Spend the remainder of your afternoon exploring Chiado and Baixa-Chiado. Walk from Rossio train station to Baixa-Chiado metro stop stopping by way of Largo Camoes square. From there to the Elevator S Justa. We chose not to go up the elevators.. for one there was a long line and another we plan to see the city from the castle. Btw.. did you notice the two pelicans? 

From the Elevator walk on to Praca de Comercio, walk along the touristy Rua do Ouro or one of the parallel streets. All the way to the arch and to the beach. Trace your way back along the tram 28 tracks. Marvel at the tiled buildings, the gorgeous pink flower trees, the music and the tinned Sardine stores. 

For dining, this city has food options galore for all types of tourists. You can find a cafe every step of the way. Casual restaurants, fast food and fancy restaurants that require reservations. For our first night, we went out to a nice restaurant for dinner at Frade de Mares  https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d2308921-Reviews-Frade_dos_Mares-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html.  

Grilled Octopus 

Prawns in garlic tomato sauce and grilled octopus were particularly good. Reservations are required here, preferably a couple of days in advance. On the way back after dinner, we found a DJ playing some awesome dance music including bollywood music with a bunch of young adults dancing and other kids skateboarding. In that square were a bunch of beer and food stalls.

Torre de Belém

The next 1/2 day we spent visiting Belem. Start early.. like try to reach the monastery when it opens by 9-9:30 am. We took the Uber from Chiado to Belem.  You can also take the metro. Buy a 24 hour Lisboa card mostly to just cut through the long lines. First visit the Monastry (Mosteiro dos Jeronimos) , then the adjoining church and then the Tower of Belem (Torre de Belem) in that order. Go up the tower for a nice view of the river meeting the sea. If line is too long.. skip the tower. After the three monuments, break for Lunch at Pasteis de Belem https://pasteisdebelem.pt/. They serve sandwiches and all, but the Pasteis de Nata are the most famous here. We must have eated 3-4 nice warm pasteis each and brought some home for later as well.

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Mosteiro dos Jerónimos

Pasteis De Belem

After lunch, we came back to the apartment in Chiado for a short nap and rest. 

Lisbon Cathedral

For the second half of the day, we walked to the Cathedral. From the Cathedral there are a few choices- walk uphill, or take the scenic tram 28 going in the uphill direction (if you have a full day pass, you can use the tram to hop on hop off.. we did not buy the day passes, choosing to either walk or Uber in the interest of time and to avoid the crowds)  or take a tuk-tuk (1hr tour for 2 ppl for 70 Euro and the driver comes disguised a guide). We did the Tuk Tuk tour, stopping at 4-5 stops along the way. After the tuk-tuk tour, we leisurely walked back to Chiado area. 

This day we dined at O Portugues (https://o-portugues-chiado.negocio.site/), Chiado, Rua dos Duques de Braganca, 5G Chiado, Lisboa. The restaurant was upscale and some of the best food we had in Lisbon with live music. We asked the singer to sing some Fado music.. not his speciality but he obliged and sang a happy fado and a sad fado. Both awesome renditions. Every dish that we tried was really well  prepared, the Vegan dumplings, grilled octopus, cod coquettes, and so much more. This restaurant requires reservations so plan in advance. After dinner, I am sure you will need a long walk back to the apartment hopefully along a way that takes you past a lively square, perhaps the one near the Baixa-Chiado metro.

The next 1/2 day for us was a trip to the Castle. Entry into the castle grounds requires a 

 ticket which is not included in the Lisboa card. You can take the tram or Uber. We went the Uber route. We spent about 2 hours just strolling in the castle. Nice views of the city from every angle. Other than great views there is not much to see. They do have a small museum in the castly. From the castly, we walked back.. an easy downhill walk, strolling through the Alfama neighborhood.  We stopped to grab lunch in Grasa. Grasa neighborhood overlooked Alfama, a great view but food here was nothing special. For dinner, we dined at a restaurant in Alfama. 

Graca

There were 2-3 restaurants in Alfama, in a square opposite the Fado museum. A Couple of ladies selling Ginjinha in a chocolate cup.. a local cherry wine. Worth a tasting. Dined at one of the places near the square as we listened to live Fado music. The singers generally come around 8 pm and the restaurants open for dinner around 7:30 ish.

If you have time, walk from where ever you are (Praca de Comercio/Chaido) to Timeoff market. Breakfast/lunch at Timeoff market. On Tuesdays - Sundays, there is a fresh fruit and vegetable market right in that building. 

Rest of the time we spent exploring the historical neighborhoods. It is easier to explore when you break up the day into 1/2 days.. in between the transitions, we either came back to the apartment to rest and freshen up or at a square just absorbing the vibe.

Pink Street

Cod fish croquettes