Hidden Gems, Colorado

Colorado is undoubtedly one of the most traveled and tourist-friendly states year-round, with nearly every corner known for its appeal to visitors. While some towns and areas have become well-known tourist destinations, there are still a few hidden gems that remain less traveled. Here, I highlight a couple of these lesser-known spots that deserve to be explored.

Maroon Bells Hike, Aspen Highlands, Colorado

The Maroon Bells are a series of bell-shaped peaks approximately 14,000 ft. high in the White River National Forest towering above the pristine glacial Maroon Creek valley. I learnt only recently that the peaks are on every Colorado post card, and are the most photographed mountains in Colorado. Located 10 miles west of Aspen and 16 miles from Snowmass, the Maroon Bells valley includes several hiking trails, camping sites, and biking paths. 

Because this area is so popular for hiking, the access is now limited during the summer and fall. In order to hike, reservations are now required to access either by private vehicle or by RFTA shuttle. If you are staying in Aspen, you can take the hotel shuttle to Aspen Highlands downtown. From there take the RFTA shuttle to the trailhead.  To make your reservation, click here. 

There are several hikes in the area, some easy and others moderate. We did the Crater Lake Trail, a 3.6-mile round-trip trail that took us approx 2:30 hrs. While its considered a moderate hike, its steep and rocky ascent as well as cooler temperatures adds a bit of a challenge.  The rewards are breathtaking vistas of Aspen woodlands and a beautiful Crater Lake. 

Montrose, Colorado

After Aspen, we decided to spend a couple of days in south western Colorado hiking and visiting towns less travelled by tourists. We chose to stay in Montrose, Colorado at Rathbone Hotel. Little did we know Montrose is/was a Republican county, until we were driving and saw Trump 2024 flags. Well, Republican or not, as Kamala Harris supporters, we watched the DNC event from our room.  Rathbone, is a brand new, non-chain, and very comfortable hotel located right in the historical downtown of Montrose. The lower level is a restaurant and bar, and the upper level includes generously sized hotel rooms. We ate breakfast at Forage, another brand new restaurant with a very charming and gracious proprietor. Republican or not, Montrose definitely seems to be benefitting from the Democrat sponsored Infrastructure Law. Almost everywhere you see buildings bring renovated, highways being repaved, and areas under development.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

Nestled in western Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park offers an inspiring day trip filled with breathtaking views, rugged landscapes, and a sense of solitude that’s hard to find in more frequented parks. Approximately a 3 hours driving distance from Aspen, lies this hidden gem filled with nature's raw beauty.

Arrival and First Impressions

I arrived at the park early in the morning. The drive to the park itself is a scenic journey through the high desert landscape, gradually giving way to the dramatic, steep walls of the canyon. 

Oak Flat Loop: A Perfect Introduction

My first stop was the visitor center at the South Rim to pick up a trail map and connect with the rangers. I began my exploration with the Oak Flat Loop, a moderate 2-mile trail that offers some of the most intimate views of the canyon. The trail winds through juniper and pinyon pine forests, gradually descending towards the canyon’s rim. Along the way, I encountered several overlooks, each providing an amazing view of the sheer cliffs and the Gunnison River far below.

The Oak Flat Loop is a great introduction to the park’s landscape, as it allows you to see the canyon from various angles without committing to a more strenuous downward hike. The trail is well-marked and offers plenty of opportunities to pause and take in the dramatic scenery. One moment you’re walking through a peaceful forest, and the next, you’re standing at the edge of a cliff, gazing down into the dizzying depths of the canyon.

The Overlooks

After completing the Oak Flat Loop, I spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the various overlooks along the South Rim. Each overlook provides a different perspective of the canyon, showcasing its unique geology and the interplay of light and shadow on its dark, towering walls. While I stopped at each overlook, my favorite were:

• Pulpit Rock View:
  

• Chasm View: This overlook offers a striking view of the canyon’s narrowest point, where the walls are only 40 feet apart at the top but drop nearly 2,000 feet straight down. The sense of depth here is truly humbling.

• Painted Wall: The Painted Wall is the tallest cliff in Colorado, and the overlook provides a perfect vantage point to admire its intricate patterns of light-colored pegmatite streaking across the dark rock. I chose this location for a light picnic lunch. 

• Cedar Point: This overlook gives a fantastic view of the Gunnison River winding its way through the canyon far below. The sound of the river, though faint, adds to the experience of standing at the edge of this immense chasm.

• East Portal: Located near the park entrance is the road to East Portal. This road takes you close to the river without the hike. The road is steep and curving on a steep grade but beautiful. 

If you’re looking for a day trip that combines stunning scenery with a sense of solitude and discovery, Black Canyon is the place to go. Just remember to bring your camera, and water, because the views are unforgettable.

4 Days in Barcelona, Spain

 Day 1: Raindrops and Ramblas

Our adventure in Barcelona began with a soggy Saturday morning arrival. Rainy day and the redeye flight: a match made in discomfort heaven. But for the promise of being in Spain for the first time and the Spanish sun on the horizon was enough not to damper our excitement.

Plaça Catalunya

Morning: Bleary-eyed and caffeine deprived, we stumbled into a cozy café next door to our Marriott apartment on La Rambla. Nothing like a strong cup of Americano to kickstart the day. Our early check-in was a breeze, the property management company very accommodating. While our digs were compact (as most apartments in Europe are), they were conveniently located – a stone's throw away from many of the tourist hotspots.

Afternoon: With raindrops tap-dancing on the pavement, we opted for a catnap to recharge our batteries. Once the clouds parted, we ventured to Passeig de Gracia for some window shopping. Who needs cheap souvenirs when you can drool over the designer handbags? Passeig de Gràcia is the famous boulevard in Barcelona, that starts from the lively Plaça Catalunya, the historic city centre to the neighbourhood of Gràcia. Most of the luxury store brands, restaurants and Bars, the Gaudi house and many tourist hotspots are located along this main boulevard or  close to this boulevard. Highly recommend staying in one of the hotels/apartments close to Passieg de Gracia or La Rambla.

Casa Villa La Pedrera

Evening: Dinner at Bar Mut in the Gracia neighborhood was a seafood tapas extravaganza. We tried red vermouth (Yzaguirre) for an aperitif and what a charming surprise. For the remainder of our trip, red vermouth was our drink of choice with varying sweetness and redness. We dined on tapas that included octopus, oysters, Paella, peppers and more. On the way to the restaurant, we couldn't help but marvel at the Gaudí-esque architecture peppered throughout the neighborhood, including the striking Casa Villa La Pedrera. After dinner, we walked back and called it an early night

Day 2: Sunny Side Up

Sunday dawned bright and beautiful, a welcome change from the previous day's drizzle.

Casa Battlo

Morning: After a simple coffee and croissant breakfast, we embarked on a tour of Casa Battlo, Gaudí's architectural marvel on Rbla Catalunya. Equipped with handheld devices, we delved into the whimsical world of Gaudí. The house's undulating façade and dreamlike interiors left us feeling like characters in his fairy tale. Strongly recommend getting tickets in advance during peak season. Access to "Special areas" is not worth it.

Afternoon: A leisurely stroll down Rbla Catalunya led us to Port Vell, where we soaked up the sun and people-watched by the pier. The juxtaposition of old and new, with modern yachts bobbing beside ancient buildings, was a sight to behold. When evening rolled around, we joined the football rowdy crowd at Flaherty's Irish pub in Gothic Quarter to catch an Arsenal game.

Evening: Our wanderlust led us through the labyrinthine streets of the Gothic Quarter, past the majestic Barcelona Cathedral. We indulged in hot churros with chocolate and savored tapas and paella. The narrow alleys of the Gothic Quarter, and balcony's decorated with flowers whispered tales of centuries past, while the bustling plazas echoed with the laughter of locals and tourists alike.

La Rambla

A Gothic Quarter alley

Port Vell

Day 3: Gaudí Galore

Monday was all about embracing Barcelona's Gaudí-infused charm.

Morning: After yet another breakfast of freshly baked croissants and cappuccino, we hailed a taxi to Park Güell. Despite the crowds, Gaudí's whimsical park was a charm. From the colorful mosaic benches to the lizard sculpture, every corner seemed to hold a very Gaudi (no pun intended) surprise. 

Mercy de Santa Caterina

Afternoon: On way back from the park, we took a taxi ride to the ongoing masterpiece that is Sagrada Familia. We marveled at the still under construction church going on for 200 some years. What captivated me most was the abundance of natural light filtering in from the stained glass windows, highlighting the stone forest Gaudi designed. Outside the richness of the sculptures and the facade really captures your attention and to be honest overwhelm the senses. From Sagrada Familia, we then meandered through Arc de Triomf and Parc de Ciutadella. The fruit topped towering spires of Sagrada Familia reached towards the sky, a testament to human creativity. As we wandered through Parc de Ciutadella, we were enchanted by its serene beauty, from the lush greenery to the shimmering lake.

Barcelona Cathedral

Evening: En route to the Cathedral, we stumbled upon architectural wonders like Mercy de Santa Caterina and Mercy de Sant Antoni. A quick stop for some wine (red vermouth) and snacks recharged our weary legs, allowing us to appreciate the cathedral's intricate glasswork. The Gothic Quarter glowed in the evening light, its ancient streets bathed in a golden hue, discovering the many marble fountains and metal ones too reminding that these common areas and water fountains were where the people congregated socially for centuries and people that live there still do. We couldn't help but feel a sense of wonder at the richness that surrounded us.

Gothic Quarter alley

Parc Guell

Sagrada Familia

Day 4: Market Marvels

Tuesday dawned with a visit to Mercado de la Boqueria (not too far from Placa Catalunya), where we feasted on Oysters, fresh fruits, empanadas, and of course, jamón ibérico with aged manchengo cheese.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Morning: We explored the vibrant Eixample neighborhood, soaking in the authentic local vibe. From charming cafes to bustling markets, every corner seemed to hold a new discovery. The lively atmosphere was infectious, and we found ourselves drawn deeper into the heart of the neighborhood near University of Barceloa and walking along the Rbla Rambla.

Evening: Before leaving Barsa, a sandwich from Bo de B (In Gothic quarter not too far from the Cathedral is a must have. The lines are long, mostly exchange students. Grab a sandwich (ask for all toppings and all sauces) and potato fries. Sit by the steps of the cathedral and enjoy this meal to make a lifelong memory. As our Barcelona escapade drew to a close, we reflect on how much more there is to do in Barcelona, a football game, the stadium, the olympic park..next time perhaps.

Mercado de la Boqueria

Day 5: Adieu 

Today we bid adieu to the bustling streets of Barca.  We boarded the fast train to Madrid, carrying memories of Gaudí, red vermouth, tapas, and the warm Spanish sun. Adiós, Barca – until we meet again!

Two days in Porto and Duoro Valley, Portugal

 Arrival in Porto 

Arriving in Porto sets the stage for an enchanting evening in this Portuguese gem. After settling into your hotel or apartment, take a moment to freshen up and unwind. But don't linger too long, for the city has a delightful evening to offer. Start by strolling to the near by Monastery of Serra do Pilar, where you'll be rewarded with a magnificent view of Porto, particularly as the sun sets, painting the sky with warm hues. It's a breathtaking sight.

As the evening deepens, continue your adventure on the Gaia side of the Ribeira. Wander the narrow cobbled streets in the Wow cultural district. Walk towards the river and you'll find a plethora of charming cafes by the riverside offering many dining choices. Opt for a table facing the Porto side, to a stunning sunset spectacle. The lit bridge, the monastic silhouette, and the illuminated buildings on the Porto waterfront create a picturesque panorama that's just amazing.

Serra do Pilar

Day 1

Rise early next morning to embark on a day of exploration in Porto, Portugal. There is much to see, and your first stop should be Sao Bento, a place that's often hailed as one of the most beautiful train stations in the world – and rightly so. As you step into the station, you'll be greeted by a breathtaking sight. The walls are adorned with intricate blue and white azulejo tiles that tell the stories of Portugal's rich history. These meticulously hand-painted tiles transform the station into a living work of art, capturing the essence of the country's culture and heritage. Sao Bento is not just a transportation hub; it's a historical and architectural gem that will leave you in awe of the craftsmanship that went into its creation. So, rise early, and let Sao Bento be your first glimpse into the captivating beauty of Porto.

Once you've marveled at the artistic beauty of Sao Bento, stroll over to the Cathedral. As you ascend to the top, be sure to pause and wonder at the hand-painted tiled wall. Each tile tells a unique story, and the intricate details are bound to leave you in awe. It's a moment of quiet appreciation.

Sao Bento

 Porto Cathedral

If you did not go to the Monastery the evening before, now is another opportunity. Walk across the Ponte Luiz bridge and climb up the monastery for a great view. 

Return to Sao Bento but continue towards the city hall. Along the way stop to admire what might possibly be the most beautiful McDonald Imperial. 

On the right hand side of the city hall is a shopping district. Go to Majestic Cafe, where JK Rowling wrote several chapters of the first Harry Potter book, the Sorcerer Stone. Grab lunch at the cafe and walk about the lively shopping district.

Majestic Cafe

Walk to the Igreja des Carmelitas  and then on to Tower (Torre de Clerigos). If its still early in the afternoon, this might be a good time for a short break and to rest.

Walk on to Mercado Ferreira and then on to the riverside towards the wine museum (Museum Vinho do Porto). Continue to explore the city by foot visiting the beaches of Porto where the Duoro river meets the Atlantic ocean. Walk back towards the Ribeira to enjoy rest of the evening with a glass of Sangria, music and people watching at one of the many cafes, this time on the Porto side of the river.

Day 2: Douro Valley Trip

There are many ways to visit the Douro Valley (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/read/articles/douro-valley-portugal), such as taking a train to and from Porto to Pinhao, or a river boat from Porto to Pinhao and back via the train. Both routes offer scenic beauty but neither will take you to visit a Quinta (vineyard). An option is to join a tour bus. We chose to rent a car and were fortunate to have a knowledgeable local guide from Porto.

Our day began early at 8:30 am, and after an hour of driving, we made a pit stop at Amarante (https://portugaltravelguide.com/amarante-portugal/), a charming town on the banks of Tâmega. A former monastery of São Gonçalo dates back to 1540 and houses a lovely interior of painted columns and a dramatic high altar. Here, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast, savoring Brioche croissants, Amarante pastries, and coffee. After breakfast, we walked over to Don Rodrigo Taberna to buy some local goat and cow milk cheese, prosciutto, chorizo and pao for lunch and to taste local green wine and red wine.

São Gonçalo

Our next destination was Quinta de Santa Eufemia (https://www.qtastaeufemia.com/i-about.html), a small winery nestled in the heart of the Douro Valley, still managed by the original family. We tried several of their wines including the white wine, Towny red wine, 10-year Port, and the LBV port. The tour and the tasting left us in high spirits, and we were ready for a relaxing picnic lunch prepared by our guide at a scenic lookout point.

After the picnic lunch, we drove over to Pinhao, a small town nestled in the Duoro valley, that offered a train station, a hotel, a couple of restaurants, and wine stores. From Pinhao, we embarked on an hour-long local boat trip to savor the beauty of stepped terraces in the Douro Valley (https://www.fortheloveofport.com/historic-terraces-in-the-douro/).

Heading back to Porto, the intoxicating day left us exhausted and ready for a peaceful night’s rest.

Day 3: Beaches of Porto

Our last day in Porto was a half-day, as our train back to Lisbon was in the afternoon. To make the most of our time, we asked our local guide to take us to the various beaches of Porto and Gaia. This relaxing beach excursion served as a serene conclusion to our unforgettable journey through this beautiful Portuguese city.

https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/capela-do-senhora-da-pedra